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It ice here tires are fighting independently front wheel Drive scary
My car Ford Explorer with a strong jerk and thick black smoke and the engine stops suddenly and WHEN i test it by obd2 there is cods p0191 & p0452 i replace fuel rial pressure sensor and nothing change, the mechanical man side PCM needs to be changed Did his talk is true because the PCM does not give 5V to sensors i forget when i do freeze frame i notice both short trim bank 1&2 = -28.9 and long trim bank 1& 2 = 0 i need your support ples My car has 76875 miles. My car has an automatic transmission.
2007 Ford Fusion....
My husband hit a tree on October 5, 2016 after the matter cylinder failed. His brakes locked up and he lost his power steering.
He has worked in brakes, calipers and other car repairs for over 20 years. When he got the new calipers, he knew they weren't the same, bit Ford told him they were the new version since the original was locking up. It took him for ever just to bleed the brakes.
Needless to say... He now has a shattered femur with two metal bars, a shattered arm with a metal plate, other hand is fractured, a shattered ankle with plates, screw's, rods, pins and bolts, and torn tibula, which needs surgery in about two weeks after the swelling goes down. Ford needs to fix this issue.
My dash light whit working I toook
The.dash panel our & replaced
The light & it still didn't work. I noticed going into the steering column. . So I opened up the steering column and the Pats ignition immobilizer system fell out! All I need is to know where the other three prong plug goes into under there because I had to come from somewhere, but for the life of me I cannot find it! I would have sent you guy a pic of
The piece but it said that's not an option right now. Thank you for your attention in this matter!
This should be another recall
Brake pedal goes to floor
My mechanic says ABS computer out and actuator. Total parts $2,200
Labor ?? Im not fixing it. Total lemon
Put on new front brakes & rotors. Few days later started heating up. Pulled apart, checked everything, added new calipers. Few days later started heating up again, intermittently. Any experience with that or ideas about cause/fix?
My moms eows no oil pressure and the lifers and cams are making a terrible rattling noise.xplorer sh
when it warms up sometimes 20 min down the road its quite again,and its only when taking off like a rumble sound
It wants to shift down then up, and on the level okay
I have water in my engine oil, does anyone knows what the cause might be? can it be multiple things?.
I changed my oil and that's how I noticed it, I was also having problems starting it but after the oil change it stared just fine for about 4 days and then the problem come back.
Thank you very.
Just replace engine
I put oil in my car and I spilled some oil while do it. When I started the car out white smoke can out while I drove away.
once car is warm temp gauge good the car warns ok but not good until the rpm is up
my car sometimes hesitates on firing up after starting ive replaced the coil pack plugs wires and im starting to lean on the fuel delievery issues im going to replace the fuel filter tomorrow my tempature guage is always cold instead of being in the middle can colder tempatures affect the air and fuel ratio?
when heater is on the driver side air vents blow cold air and the right side vents blow hot air
it won't pass inspection. They clear the error and have to drive it 40 to 50 miles to clear other three monitors then message comes back
Are the engines the Same from 97-08 on the 4.2's minus the intakes? I need to replace mine 97's 4.2
Washer also doesn't work. What else could be wrong?
I started my car (after buying a new battery last week that was larger than the factory one I had) and suddenly my heater is on high and cannot be adjusted or turned off & my radio won't turn on?
It took the mechanic 4 hrs to find it's a sensor in the middle panel (and now can't find the part and said it may need to be built at the factory) so my questions are:
- Does 4 hrs to find the problem seem like a long time?
- Should the part be so hard to replace?
- Could the stronger battery be to blame?
This is a new mechanic for me (I just moved to town) and I'm starting to doubt that I should have trusted my brothers referral.
Thanks in advance for your help. Judi
I have 60,000 miles on the Edge. Air conditioner is working fine. I literally turned on the heat today when I noticed it would only blow out cold air.
Could it be my neutral safety switch
my alternator was changed 2 weeks ago the same day the car died it would crank but not start i bought a used programmed pcm changed it and reset my keys the car started worked for 2 days and died i towed it to an electrical specialist it took him 7 days to tell me what i already knew something is frying the PCM question is what he doesn't know I need to tow it somewhere else and don't know where
It keeps illuminating that all the doors are ajar, deck lid ajar,
I notice a service engine sign blinking on my dash board and I use a code scanner which showed code (P0446),I met a dealer which fixed the canister purge valve with new one but after the second day, the sign was still showing with the code (P0446).
please what do you suggest will be the problem, after I have changed the purge valve with new.?
a friend said to not worry about it that its only the module thats messed up he could take it off and just clean it.. is there a safe fix i can do. or should i just take it in.
My Edge has keyless entry and start. Sometimes when I get in the car and start it up, a warning comes on saying "No Key Detected." The car starts, but why does it tell me this?
When I am driving on the highway I turn off the Brake Assist setting and Collision Warning because I don't like it. However, I notice when I drive above 55mph, the car will randomly brake, even with no other cars around. It will slam on the brakes, and it will even send a warning message saying, "Collision Warning Not Available." Why is it doing this? And what can be done?
Theres alot of screechs & squels in the back left whell when I drive. Could this be the bearings are bad or does this mean it needs grease in the bearrings?
Happens most/loudest when at idle under load when a/c is running. Up above idle, sound goes away. Relatively high frequency, pretty sure not rod knock, it's too fast for that. Alternator is 2 weeks old, idler pulley approx 6 months. Been in engine compartment, and under vehicle, but its one of those sounds that I just can't seem to pin down an exact location for. Seems to run fine, plenty of power, not missing, gauges all normal range. Any ideas would be much appreciated.