Ford F-350 Questions

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Im need to know how long ut takes to replace the map sensor, alternator, valve cover gaskets, glow plugs, camshaft position sensor, injection pressure regulator, injector control pressure sensor, oil sensor, coolant temp. Sensor, and the camshaft sensor all on a 1995 ford f-350 7.3
all the time
friend said engine was replaced, need to see what year the eng. is. States runs well until warmed up. check eng lite is on.
above the speedometer head. Cruise control drops out, and resets when I hit the top of the Dash. the engine increases 250 RPM with no increase in speed, Acting like a Lock-out Torque converter. Smacking the dash solves the problem .This is a 2 WDR truck. What is your suggestion.????
So I know there is an extreme draw from somewhere but I don't know how to test for it when the volts are dropping that quickly. The previous owner has messed with some wiring and it's referbed 7.3 idi in a 89 f350. I'm not sure how to test for a draw when i only have 10 minutes until the battery dies! any ideas of what i could do to find the issue, before i just start cutting non essentials! Any advice would be amazing! Thank you
My clutch only works a few inches from the floor should I bleed master cylinder and how I'ls that done on my 93 f350 5.8 manual transmission
I've got a 1993 Ford F350 with a 5.8 manual transmission and I bought it nonrunning with a loud clicking sound which indicates starter to me so I replace the starter with rebuilt One it went on fine truck started up and ran but had a loud grinding knocking pinging noise coming from the bell housing area after starting at maybe two or three times and running it In idle for a few min I parked the truck came back the next day go to fire it up it turns over acting like basically it's out of gas never does start up eventually goes back to it's clicking sound now from what I've researched it sounding to me like the starter is not disengaging and took a lot of physical abuse during the moments I was running it now the people that bought it from had a button start on it by speaker wire running to the selinoid switch with basically what I would call it like a free turning ignition where you could put the key in there or not but if you put the key in there it would work and crank up So u could start it with either the button or key why at the time I was not sure but have should've asked more questions about that and why the start button was even needed. When I did come back the next day to crank the truck only the pushbutton would start the truck. the ignition switch itself that you put the KEY in would not work to crank the truck anymore so I'm kind of thinking that after putting these things together as far as symptoms and causes of symptoms I'm now thinking that somehow between that pushbutton start having speaker wire connecting it to the selinoid switch and the original ignition switch key cylinder itself still operational that the starter is not disengaging after start up and killing my new starter because it looked like from the space that I could see with a flashlight that the inside of the starter was not Intacked so would you say that I need to shim the starter check the flywheel for cracks check the flower bulbs for tightness all the above and would you say that I need to shim the starter check to flywheel for cracks check the flywheel bolts for tightness all the above or would you think it's possibly because there is the original ignition switch with key still operational and there is a secondary push button start switch with speaker wire running to selinoid operational as well that's causing the starter to not disengage all the way or at all? Also could it need to be shimmed?
King ranch with 80.000 miles
@ 50.000 miles replaced fuel pump, Heads rework with new hard bolts,and a 3in exhaust sys installed . No problems indicated until the no start?
Belt comes off , replaced New tensioner , Belt Guide, Idler Pulley. won't line up in the tensioner. I ride on 1/2 the tens. pulley. Ford said no recall. ?
while going down the road my truck will stutter orhesitate i can switch from tank 1 to2 and it will catch again. especially goin up hill. it acts like it is running out of gas
when you turn the ign.key on the fuel pump comes on and runs up to 4 min. before it shuts off and you can crank and start engine- seem the colder the weather the faster the pump will shut off- then after it has been driven a while the engine stumbles the engine light comes on and off and the engine will die-you can here the fuel pump relay clicking on and off-this does this on either tank on the truck-had a local ford dealer look at it and they repaced my battery-?- and fuel modulator- still doing the same thing-got any advice
fluid level is fine and not burnt
Radiator had pressure built up prior to taking cap off, was very low. Overflow tank was VERY full. When running after filling radiator noticed a lot of small bubbles in coolant, almost looked like carbonation in soda style bubbles.
Like to See a list of reasons for the spilt and sputter and miss in my truck.
Been almost two years since we bought a uhaul truck and never could get all monitors ready. Tried drive cycles but hard to do here in L. A. With no place to run the cycles correctly. Doesn't seem fair to junk a great running truck because can't get a smog check unless all monitors are ready. Even the State Board smog mechanic couldn't help. Having to run the cycle on 3/4 full tank gets VERY expensive too.
I want to take the cab off of my 93 f-350 and put it on my 88 f-450 but the f-450 had a diesel and the f350 is a gas 460 i was wonding if the cab swap will beable to get leagel
It's a beautiful truck only used for towing horses in a trailer
auto transmission seems to slip from overdrive to drive causing rpm's to get to high and slips in just drive more often the meter reading on the selenoids was the same in the first 2 [about20.2 approx. on all]it has new filter and fluid and did not smell burnt and also not to much shavings or trash in filter not at magnet in pan
The linkage between clutch pedal and puchrod for clutch master cylinder has an issue. I can grab part where linkage for clutch master cylinder connects and hold it but clutch pedal moves without the part moving that I'm holdind that linkage for pushrod connects to. Its like a pin or other part is broke stripped out or something. This is first time for me dealing with clutch ever, every thing else is in working order except between pedal and where clutch master cylinder pushrod is connected.
my speedometer and odometer stopped working and my overdrive light flashes and my transmission shifts hard this all happened at once. i replaced the rear diff sensor and that fixed nothing and i cant find out where the transmission speed sensor location is. where its supposed to be is on the tail which is sealed off and there's no wiring to it so im completely lost as to what it is. any suggestions will help!
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