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my truck wont start, i replaced distributor cap and rotor, when coil wire is in the distributor it wont start, but held out to see or hear spark, the engine wants to start but dont. its a 1989 mazda B2200, 4 cylinder.spark plugs and wires were new 4 months ago.
Was running fine no noises. Then on way home from bank she heard trans gear down. But it ended up not moving seconds later. But can hear it shift. Engine starts fine. Puts into neutral or drive can hear it change but wont move
The car was running. I pulled out the dipstick to check the oil. The car died. It will not start back. What could be the problem
I can drive forward but not go in reverse
Truck sat for a long time, took it to ford and they told me the starter was bad, I put a new starter on it and it started one time and would not start again. Starter was hot, put a new starter battery and solenoid on it and it did the same thing! any help out there?
I ordered a cv-axel on line and it came with an abs ring. The main question I have is how I repair my car so I can get back on the road quickly.
Tried jump start it and it didn't work. There is a clicking in the fuse box and the neddles on the dash are acting strange. Is this a security system malfunction and could replacing the siren fuse fix the problem?
no spark code PA15 not sure what is wrong . turns over .
going speeds of 75 mph pickup starts sputtering and slows down
So i bought the car used and ever since i have heard a sound coming from under the car and or engine bay that sounds like you put a piece of metal in a tin can and shook it around. It happens when accelerating but normally only when accelerating quickly or past 2500 rpm
Want to make it not cut off what or how doo make it not cut off
The truck want drive a long time it start right up
My car has been lowered with lowered springs and I was told by a mechanic that the reason from the rubbing was "probably" because the driver's side front strut is leaking oil. He then suggested that I have the strut replaced but also it's not a guaranteed fix.

When he was showing me this I noticed there was probably a miscommunication between him and the receptionist because I said the rubbing was happening in the back of the driver's side and not the front. You can actually see a lot wear on the face of the back tire. He didn't realize this but continued to suggest it's still probably the front strut that needs to be replaced. He said once the front one was replaced that the back tire wouldn't probably rub anymore.

This problem started when I changed that tire to the original size. I had 2 wheel alignments with a smaller spare tire located in at the drivers backside and I was thinking those wheel alignment with smaller tire has caused the rubbing thats happening now. Is this possible? I've heard that you're supposed to change struts in pairs so I'm not trusting this guys judgment.

2006 mazda mx5, 50,000 miles.
Engine light came on 2 weeks ago. Checked code and it comes up with the knock sensor, wiring, and ecm.
Wiring is too new to have any problems and there shouldn't be anything wrong with the ecm or a different code would come up for that. Tried locating the knock sensor and I can't find it. Like I said, the engine light comes on and goes off same day or every other day.
Also, I've been having some hesitation in power when applying the throttle going into 4th gear.

Scott
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