Im having an electrical issue where when I start the car, the rear window wiper blades run, when I use the left blinker, the blinker and the security light comes on, and when I use the right blinker the hazards come on. Also, when I pop the hood, the horn goes off until i disconnect the battery. and the positive cable will not tighten on the battery anymore. I also had an issue today where the check engine light and the TCS and slippery road warnings came on. Once I disconnected the battery and reconnected, those disappear. What are my options and how much will this cost to fix.

94 Mazda 626, 2.0, standard. Installed a used throttle body and idle air control valve, new plugs and wires, o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, distributor cap and button. I took apart the IAC and cleaned it. I'm pretty dog gone sure the springs and etc are correct. When I try to start it, it only starts on second and third try and I have to pump the petal several times for 5 seconds plus to get it to idle. It has hesitation when petal is pushed. Biggest thing I noticed was a strong smell of gas/fumes out the tail pipe but after 1 hour of trying to adjust timing by ear the new plugs and o2 sensor is covered in black powdery soot. I also noticed that when I put pressure on the throttle-spring on the throttle body where the cable goes in the opposite direction ( as in thing to close it more the car seems like it will idle better. What could be the problem and what steps do I need to take to start eliminating and checking the problem. Thank you

Why does the engine rattle even when it's on Park and I accelerate there's a rattle in the engine compartment

The distribuitor is new end cranshaft. Sensor

Put in new computer and bezel per mazda dealer. bought truck in December 15 with passed inspection. all bulbs replaced.

Truck was not used for 5-6 months.

Just replaced the VVT Sprocket and the timing chain, Finally able to start it but now it has a major Nocking/Ticking sound coming from the top end. any suggestions as to what it might be?

Idle has been erratic for at least a year and the engine light is on because is usually too high

Hi. My 2005 mazda 3 has a problem. All at once the indicator turn signals(on dash), air con and climate temp signal stopped working. I have checked all the fuses which are fine. P.s, the indicator outside the car works fine. Please help.

When it gets hot I got spray starter fluid in the carburetor

I was driving not even 10 minutes up the road to get some ice cream(pregnant cravings), it's late, midnight almost. & I've had this van for about 2 1/2 months. But don't drive it often. Just to doctors appointments. this is the first time anything like this had happened. We was driving & immediately not even three houses down from our house we hear this ticking sound. I just turned on the heater, & we know nothing about cars so I thought maybe that's what it was being I haven't used the heater at all. Well anyways, I finally get on the main strip, almost to my destination & my oil light pops on & my car immediately dies. Doesn't sputter or anything. Just dies. My husband starts it back up, & we decide to head to Walmart to get oil (obviously) & right before we made it there it dies out again & this time won't even start back up. The lights won't even come on. At this point I'm freaking out. It's late & I'm in a town I just moved too & don't even know who to call. This nice man tried to help us out, by jumping it & was gonna follow us home if we could start it. But it wouldn't even start. The lights came in while the power source was connected but wouldn't start. But once you disconnect it goes out again. He had some oil in his car the 5 quart tub. We put half of it in there & just let it sit over night. I'm about to go back up there & see if it will do anything. What could this possibly be? Does it maybe have a sensor? Thank you in advance, we know absolutely nothing about cars!

Every time I apply the brakes the brake pad goes all the way down.

Need to get this open being that this thing likes to eat oil. Any way to manually open ? I can hear sloenoids activating but not releasing main latch. Over engineered for what should be a simple mechanical cable release.

The pan/filter is not full of chewed up metal particles. The fluid does not smell burned. The up-shifting seemed to be delayed (high revs). Then one day, instead of shifting to third, it "popped" loudly. Now it is either in park or neutral (no forward gears, no reverse)

It slippes everyday, when accelerating. I have changed the filter and fluid.

Just wanting to know if it fits because i dont want to buy them and they dont fit or is there anything id have to buy to make em

where is it located?

The power seat will move forward and backwards. I can lay the backrest down but it will not come back up!
Is it a fuse,switch or motor? If it's a fuse where would I find the right one?

The AC Usually Starts To Work And Blow
Cool Air After (10) Minutes. Sometimes
The Car Will Have To Hit A bump In The Road.

I have a 1991 Mazda 626 5 speed transmission and i ran the motor to let it get warm, i pulled the oil dipstick to check oil level and oil mixed with water was spewing out of dipstick?

poor gas milage how to fix?

how do you increase gas milage only geting 10 miles to a gallon

I would also need to warm up my car for like 30 min. to an hour in order for it to actually move. Now my overdrive light is blinking continuously even when I push the button on the shifter and my check engine light stays on. Please, I need to know what's wrong koz it's the only transportation I have. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

My nc Miata leaks in heavy rain and it only happens behind my driver seat. I just want to know how to fix this problem.

My husband just replaced the clutch on my car. We have no manual and he does not know how much of the trans. fluid to put back into it. He does not know how much and he has put in it out of the 3 quart jug I bought. PLEASE get back to me soon!!!

I started my Mazda tribute 2001(Automatic transmission) this morning after a whole night of rest. However, when I start the engine, it starts and i leave it for 3 mins just to heat up the engine. When I engage it to 1, it moves and then it dies and never start again.
Thank you very much.

Drove into a puddle going between 20-25 mph, biggest mistake i did didnt see it coming. All the display lights lid up and the car began to stall from 45 mph to 30 then shut off. Ive replaced the radiator, ac condensor, wires and spark plugs. I tried to deflood the car using a technique from researching. Under tne hood, i took out the fuse to the fuel pump then try to start it but it wont crank or turn over. But when i put the fuse back in amd tried it, it turns over. Haven't tried the spark plug technique but will try it today.

Replaced computer twice...each time was because the rpm would go up to 3 when in park and not go down at all until slammed into drive or reverse drives fine but when placed back in park revs up again....problem is fixed when new computer is in and the car ran fine for 2 months then it happened again so got a new one on the warranty. ...then 6 months and now its doing it again..first start in the morning it wont do it....but after driven and put into park it does it all day long until it sits over night again.....Ive had 2 mechanics argue back and fourth telling eachother they dont know what they are talking about....truck has 156,000 on it and I need it for 6 more months. ...if any one has insight please let me know

Replaced both CV joints 3 years ago. What's making the grinding noise?

I've already replaced the bulb and the regular headlight is working fine, but I'm concerned about it happening again. If the whole bulb was shot, why would the high beams still work?