Mazda B2500 Questions

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Ticking is coming from engine, it runs but a little rough.

how would I repair the p1506 code?

Truck will not start. Changed filet and no fuel to engine.

A meter on the new battery says FAULT.
I assume there is a short

It's stay on

I now have to decide whether to fix the timing belt in order to see if the engine is viable. Advice?

where is fuse for bright lights

Turns over but no start,changed filter ,still nothing doing it my self 3rd time ever help I beg of you

The a/c is cold but very little air is flowing from the vents.

Engine light throwing a code for lean. Replaced the fuel pump 6 months ago, and a coil (due to misfire) 2 months ago. Have the TPS, but haven't installed it. Loud rattle on the exhaust. Think that's just a problem with looseness.

I have recently had problems with my truck running. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, fuel pump, battery & 175amp max fuse. Each repair has gotten me a day of running only to stop again. Now I have no lights on the panel & it will not start. What could be wrong now?

doesn't crank

Riding along all is OK then it stalls also starts rough and eng light on then runs ok

reaper please help it has 4500 miles

So my brake lights work but my running tail lights won't work. I was swapping out fuses so it could be that but I filled all the fuse spots with 15 amp fuses which shouldn't be a problem. The fuses I replaced were only in the side panel and I haven't looked under the hood yet. I'm really just curious if anyone knows the exact fuse spots that control lights. I couldn't find them in my manual.

Got a flat tire

ago and was running fine

Is there a common fix? Could it be related to my cruise control not working? The door ajar signal keeps going on and off at intervals also. Any clues to fix? Thanks

I was pricing parts and one site suggested checking and adjusting the voltage of the current throttle body positioner prior to replacement. If replaced these adjustments are still required. Other members suggested cleaning and dealing TBS. Son is taking truck 200 miles away to school. It had all the symptoms of a bad TBS. Want it running and safe before he leaves.

also the van accelerates
for itself

When the key is in the lock position, the key is out and the accessories stay on. It also has drained the battery. To test the ignition key we have the attach jumper cables to power the truck. I have also changed the switch/commutateur interruptor. When I turn the key, it moves freely without clicks. The truck is a standard and the clutch has to be depressed when trying to start. Still no crank. Could the gear behind the key lock cylinder have broken? Help?

I've followed all advise and YouTube videos. I'm very mechanically inclined but that hydraulic fitting will not separate so I can "burp" my lines!!

After I drive for a couple of minutes they start working.
Also the door ajar light and the dome light stays on but will also go out after I drive the truck down the road.
These problems are becoming more consistent.