2001 Volvo S40 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
what else should I check
The car has a hard start when not warm engine.
not rough, but can hear engine running while driving not quiet. Is 102K alot of miles for this car? how many miles can I expect before start having problems?
The car has 102K, engine looks very clean, drives nice, litle white exhaust at start up then went away after test drive
At 116K on a Volvo S40 1.9T, per Volvo, what scheduled maintance should be done to the car? And how much will it cost me to do the repairs?
only can turn key in ignition far enough on to start electrical items cannot turn key all the way to start car
Has trouble starting. Just recently loses engine power after driving for a bit and engine sputters.
The light came on after we pushed the button to put the car in winter mode. Have disconnected the battery and the light is still on. took it to autozone and the code they got was P1241
The local shop that diagnosed Code P0015 talked about timing problem and said only Volvo dealership has a computer that can fix the problem. The Engine-light went out by itself when I started the car, but may come back on again perhaps. What exactly is this problem in plain English and how much should it cost approximately to have it at a Volvo dealership?
My thanks in advance.
Vibrations stpped after Engine Rubber-mount was re replaced. Now the car makes a vibrating diesel-type car noise.
I had this code p0420 for almost 3 years, but the light goes ON and OFF so somehow i passed the emissions, but now it's getting closer again and don't know what to do. I guess it's a air leak, but any ideas how to find and where to look for a air leak? The other code p0299 i have no idea, it's for my turbo, but the turbo works most of the time and sometimes when i push the gas pedal down the turbo don't works, so i am assuming maybe it's a air leak that is causing this two error.
Thank you !
The first thing that happened was that it wouldn't start on the first turn. Then it stalled at a red light - then, I was driving 45 but the car was trying to go 70 - it was like cruise control was on - I had no control of the car. The breaks felt weak. At the same time, my temperature guage was going up to almost the red area and then dropping to the bottom then back up to middle ( normal) - all this was happening within seconds/minutes of each other. The car would calm down and the temp gauge would be normal then, it would accelerate and the guage would react - this went on for 10 miles before I could just park it. The shop replaced the idle air control valve and said it was fixed. I drove it off the lot and with 27 miles it acted the very same way. They have been test driving it for the past week trying to make it 'act up' again but it hasn't done it for them. I will not drive this car until I know the proper part/sensor/module has been replaced! It is too scary and I will have an accident or hit the car in front of me. Can you please help!
The check engine light is back on after replacing the oxygen sensors and driving 40 miles. Now what???
I've been told that these should be done together to save double labor cost.
The weather here recently has been awful (blizzard-like conditions and lots of ice). My Volvo sat for several days un-started and when I went to start it, it wouldn't. I jumped it, got it to the dealer, and they replaced my battery. Since then, however, my car will not heat up. The blower does not blow at all. Any ideas before I dish out some more cash for a ridiculously expensive dealer repair and maintenance?