Volvo S40 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
What exactly is that code
I checked the spark plugs they were very dirty I replaced um an replaced my coils as well still no start I well did a full oil change an there was no milky substance so I'm thinking my head gasket is fine.
Car runs awesome not a hiccup with 200000miles taken to dealer for all services. But smog tec tells me it's not worth fixing n I need to sell it,n check engine light was disabled somehow? I reset codes n only came up with code 420, Can't believe car is not worth fixing! Runs awesome super clean...
I've switched the relay 3 times the hazard switch twice still nothing could the cem have something to do with this and if so can I use one from the salvage yard and how are they removed
What could be the problem
I have a 2000 Volvo s40 and it starts and turns off if my foot is not on the gas I was told I need a tune up and spark plugs. Is that true my check enigine light is on
Slight sound at idle as well. Drives fine, shifts fine but sound does not stop. Smells oily. Three times engine cut out like was not getting gas but has not happened for quite some time. Had oil changed and fluids checked....said transmission fluid was very dark. No codes showing on messages
The car has sat up for about 2 years before I bought it and I had to replace the timing belt bracket but it still runs rough when first started and has trouble getting up to speed when I take off or slow down
First the car started cutting off. then the knocking noise began
stop working as well as the automatic door locks
I replaced radiator myself and did not measure how much fluid I lost when trans. hoses were disconnected.
Been noticing a rattling noise the car is idling in park it's fine
Shift into reverse it rattles for a second
Neutral is fine
Drive it rattles 3 times
And when accelerating past 20 or 30 it rattles for a second as well feels like it's on the left.
Joints maybe or mounts my drive in Houston always has a ton of bumps and it rattles when I go over those as well.
Had battery tested and fully charged at autozone
Then figured it was that alternator
Had that and the serp belt replaced.
Ran fine for a week then I had the door open for maybe 10 mins (car off light on) and then it wouldn't start.
Jumped it and took a drive for 30 mins to see if it would charge up, and wouldn't start again.
Thinking there's a power drain from a light or something any clues on common issues or where to start looking?
Mechanic said there was corrosion but didn't tell specifics. What should I look out for and what areas would make it not worth purchasing the vehicle.
I went to the dealer to have all of the faulty codes reset. They told me that I could just drive it for 50 miles as the drive cycle. The car passed everything except the OBDII based on drive cycle. The dealer will probably charge me again if I go in regarding the failed smog. I need to know if there are any shops that do the DRIVE CYCLE.
Car dumped all the fluid and will not reverse
After driving a small trip ( round trip 3 miles ) after the light turned green I went press the gas pedal and got no accrleration and crept back home at 2 to 4 miles an hour. Please Inform me of any known issues that would cause this problem
same all the time sits for awhile then 15 great minutes of cold air then hot all the time ..this goes on
Started after having the tires rotated
I just got the car today and I am having some issues with the sunroof. Basically the buttons do not correspond at all with the correct actions. I have yet to successfully do anything but tilt and un tilt. I have never actually seen the sunroof retract. Even with the titling it was pretty random which buttons worked and were almost always wrong. I checked and replaced the two corresponding fuses just to be safe with no fix. I also tried turning the key a bunch of times in the drivers side which apparently resets stuff but that did not work either.
The computer is having trouble recognising sensors and as a result the engine light will not turn off all the time and when it does turn off, the computer still does not recognise this(the sensors).
The ABS module/brake light will not go off. The odometer will not work either, which affects engine idle. I have been all over the place in our area trying to get help with this problem so my car can pass the annual smog inspection,I have spent a lot of $ but have gotten no solution to the problem. Time is running out. If anyone reading this has any answers, please let me know. Thank you
Just purchased a 2007 S40 2.0L diesel. I recently noticed that it's leaking oil. As I took the engine tray down to do an oil change since it's last one last April. I power washed the oil that was welded to the subframe before I left work to come home but when I got back I noticed it's leaking oil from the back of the engine, the flywheel seems to be wet from the oil. What would it be? The oil return pipe from the turbo? The oil filter housing O-ring is perished? Crankshaft seal is gone? The front of the engine doesn't have any oil in it not on the auxiliary belts. You can see up from underneath it at the back of the engine it's wet from oil.
When I am driving my car when I hit 40+ mph, my car sound like I'm going through a tunnel and it's egg is and shakes a little. My dad thinks it might be my wheel bearings.
can you call me please 336 287 0711 Rochelle
We're reading code P0237 on our Volvo. We replace the boost sensor and reset the check engine light. Light hasn't come back but the code is still popping up. Can't pass the emissions check with the code. Any ideas on what to check next?
the speedometer and the fuel gauge no longer work. the indicator light of the fuel gauge is on no matter the quantity of fuel in the tank