74
questions

I checked the spark plugs they were very dirty I replaced um an replaced my coils as well still no start I well did a full oil change an there was no milky substance so I'm thinking my head gasket is fine.

The car has sat up for about 2 years before I bought it and I had to replace the timing belt bracket but it still runs rough when first started and has trouble getting up to speed when I take off or slow down

I replaced radiator myself and did not measure how much fluid I lost when trans. hoses were disconnected.

Been noticing a rattling noise the car is idling in park it's fine
Shift into reverse it rattles for a second
Neutral is fine
Drive it rattles 3 times
And when accelerating past 20 or 30 it rattles for a second as well feels like it's on the left.

Joints maybe or mounts my drive in Houston always has a ton of bumps and it rattles when I go over those as well.

01 s40
173k
Had battery tested and fully charged at autozone
Then figured it was that alternator
Had that and the serp belt replaced.
Ran fine for a week then I had the door open for maybe 10 mins (car off light on) and then it wouldn't start.
Jumped it and took a drive for 30 mins to see if it would charge up, and wouldn't start again.

Thinking there's a power drain from a light or something any clues on common issues or where to start looking?

We're reading code P0237 on our Volvo. We replace the boost sensor and reset the check engine light. Light hasn't come back but the code is still popping up. Can't pass the emissions check with the code. Any ideas on what to check next?

and right now my right tire is hanging onto two good studs I can't move my car at all I was driving and I heard rattling or knocking in that same tire and the two studs broke

they were working but i crossed a wire and it sparked. it blew the courtesy light fuse when it happened so I replaced that and everything else seems to work except license plate lights and I cant find a fuse for them

The battery went dead and it never worked again

When I push the power button it only say off nothing else

Whined when accelerated at first then clouds of white smoke poured from exhaust.. Oil is seen in tailpipe and now car won't move at all when pedal is pushed to floor... Looked up to find turbo return pipe seal is a common problem that would cause this to happen... Looking for an estimated price to fix a problem like this would cost?

I'd like to know where this fuel pressure regulator is located, and about what it looks like. The Site says it's the fuel pressure regulator or the vacuum line attached to it that is causing it to have starting problems. I've had a diagnostic run a couple of times and no codes come up, which, according to this Site, is common. This regulator or the plumbing to it seems to be my problem.