1995 Volvo 940 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a litte; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
Spark Plug Wires
Distributor Cap (Intially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
K&N Air Filter
Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Gauge Temperature Sensor
All Vacuum Hoses
All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
Idle Air Control Valve
Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
Radio Suppression Relay
Throttle Position Sensor
Timing Belt and Tensioner
Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
MAF Sensor (No Codes)
EGR (No Codes)
EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Deployed during very minor accident, no other damage except for cracked windshield also caused by the airbags.
my machanic changed a main seal and was not able to put the engine harness back the way it was and now it won't run. He says he's waiting on his friend who has a car like mine so he can look at his engine harness to see how to run the wires. He's had my car going on two months now. Is there a refernce source for this anywhere. I feel like I don't have a car anymore. I love my car and I need it now! HELP
i chabged front seal in trans now speedo don't work. where does it hook up i think i am missing it
not sure just bought car few days ago. was working for about 6 miles. stopped! then after sitting for 8 hours and no rain, worked again about same amount of time.
just added freon and the compressor won't kick on. someone told me i might have to jump start it, just don't know how
My car drives for a few minutes , then just shuts down. After a few minutes it will restart, and the same thing will happen again
I am loosing brake fluid (I am adding fluid once every two or three weeks and driving less than 400 miles). Any ideas what the problem might be? Thank you!
Can I turn the Check Engine light off without going to a dealer or repair shop? Seems like each time I have it turned off, it comes back on within a day or two. Thank you!
I broke part of the key off in the outside door lock on the passanger side? Anyway to remove it or do I need to replace the lock? If so, how do I replace the lock? Thank you!
When the car is turned on, the antenna goes up halfway and stops. When I turn the car off, the antenna goes down all the way. Any ideas? Thank you.
The drivers side rear door lock will not lock/unlock from the driver master control panel. The door will lock/unlock when manually pushed down and/or pullled up. Thank you!
The car will sometimes stall when idle at a traffic light. We had the fuel filter replaced. Seems to do better, but still stalls. Has been mentioned that EGR valve could use work. Can you adjust an EGR valve or does it have to be replaced. Or what other reason could it have for stalling?