My car over-heats at speed of above 130km/h and all pipes connecting water to the automatic gear box and the radiator become swollen. The fans are working properly yet it over-heats but cools as soon as speed is reduced below 120km/h. What do I need to fix?

When starting cold I have to crank it several times before it will finally start. After it starts, if I give it gas it will immediately stall. If I let the car idle (after cranking many times it will finally start) it will usually idle then stall. I will crank again and it will idle and usually after about 30 seconds it will finally start to idle normally and then I can step on the gas and all is fine. But if I step on the gas when car is first idling before waiting about 30 seconds, it will cause it to stall.

My drivers seat belt does not retract. Can you send seat belt removal instructions?

Following a cooling hose fitting crack that sprayed the whole engine with coolant, the car was running fine. After replacing two hose fittings & the thermostat, the car started to run erratically with reduced power & a knock. Code showed P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire) & P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire). I replaced the plugs, wires & coil pack, but the problem still remains. In addition to the above codes, it is reading P0300 (random multiple cylinder misfire) & P0102 (powertrain - mass or volume air flow circuit low input). Can you help me to determine where to look next? Fuel injection system? Vacuum system??

Like the hatchback door locking every time you close it or the auto door locks when you hit a certain speed??

It takes up to 5 seconds to start. Someone mechanics says that is some kind of sensor that need to be changed and other says it is normal for Diesel engine to take up to 5 second to start.

Can the seatbelt be repaired and what would the procedure involve?

Okay so I was taking a 2 hour road trip I was about maybe an hour in and my epc light comes on but nothing happened so I was just like ok
Well maybe 30 minutes later I had my cruise control on going about 70mph and my rpms just drop to zero my car jerks and I lose all power so I pull over and cut the car off and crank it back up and it's running fine again maybe 10 minutes and it does it again
I continue to drive it and notice it will only go 59mph and it won't go over 4000rpm
This is with my foot pressed to the floor!
Well I changed out the coil pack thinking that was it and went to test drive it and it won't change gears(automatic transmission) if I go from 1-3 it does but in drive it will not change I can get up to any speed but my rpms stay high obviously from it not changing gears!!!
Someone please help me!

and the down one normal

It's a little silver cylinder with a plug on top and when I shut my car off it constantly runs only way to get it to stop is if I unplug it for a little can anyone help me tell me how to fix it? And tell me what it is I have a Volkswagen golf v5 in the UK.

My headlights and break lights are fine along with all power windows (including moon roof) but none of my fuses are blown. No idea where to start.

cant start the car in the morning

My son is looking at buying an uncertified 2002 Gulf that requires brakes, has an engine light that goes on apparently it goes out when a fuse is replace and also has two exhaust leeks. Can you give me a ball park on what these things would cost to repair.

when I start the car no EPC light but when I press down on the gas pedal the Epc light goes on and the car moves like a turtle and I already changed the brake switch Could it be the alternator or battery or does the gas pedal need to be replace??????? PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

Here is the fact and symptoms:
Car : VW Polo 2002 1.4L Manual (car not listed above)

1. Chirping noise when idle, Noise goes away when in clutch
2. Whinning noise when driving, Noise goes away when driving
3. On jack, left wheel spin up, knocking sound can be heard from gearbox.
4. Oil level - Not sure

People said, change the gearbox, throwout bearing fails, bad bad bearing inside tranny; but i`m not sure which,