2005 Toyota Sienna QuestionsRefine by vehicle
So I fixed it and the lights still on and I don't know what it is and I need a smog test and no one will do it
We recently went in for scheduled check-up/maintenance. We were told that the battery did not pass. That was about a month ago, there have been only limited problems in that regard since. Then just Tues. night it simply would not start after only several minutes. We simply figured the battery had died, the next morning it started, we drove it home used it for the morning. It died within hours though. Friday morning we replaced battery, my wife said that prior to removing the old one it had power to do everything except turn it over. My son replaced the battery earlier today. Everything has power just like with the old battery, except full power now. It simply won't turn over. It sounds like it gets to the alternator then goes no further. We get no codes at all. and at the moment i'm assuming that where i hear and feel the clicking as it tries to turn over, it just does not do so. I will check to be sure. Her daddy was a Toyota Master Tech. and she has serious concerns regarding the ones here at the dealership due to what seem to be questionable or simply bonehead Techs. Other problems and fixes just seem pretty slipshod. This though i'd like to take care of so i know it's right and to see if things they say are not quite right really are'nt. They say tires are good and they are not, we had new front brakes done there tis summer. They already make the same grumbling they said were bad six months ago.
My interior lights have always worked. Then one day they stopped working. All of them. Even the ones that are supposed to come on automatically when I shut off my car.
Sometimes when I'm driving on a straight, dry road, the anti lock brakes will kick in and the anti-skid light will beep and flash for a couple of seconds. There is no reason for this to happen and it's very scary when it does.
When I try to close the automated sliding door, it makes a grinding sound, shudders a little, and then opens again. I can't see anything blocking the track. It works fine if I hold the handle while it closes. But if I squeeze the handle for a second or two, it does the grind/shudder thing.
Mileage is 180,000. Is this normal for a radiator of this age (11 years) and miles?
What would cause both mine (original) and my husbands (10mths old) fob remotes to die tonight? They are completely dead, no button on either one functions.
Battery just seems so unlikely with the different ages of the remotes - or are they "married" if one battery dies they both stop working?
Vehicle is 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE. Model number on 6 button remote is GQ43VT20T.
05 Seinna, development of a small leak on right side. I eventually had the steering rack replacement with a rebuilt Cardon as can only get rebuilt unit if not buying from OEM Toyota. As soon as I drove felt hard to turn steering wheel to left. Not to right but left hand turns only. Took to Stealership and was told (internal) spool valve on pump, $788. $70 for diagnosis fee. Pass. I took to my mechanic who put on a Cardon pump for less than a $100 and three hours labor or about $280 total parts and labor. Same issue existed so no body at this point can tell is it the reman Cardon steering rack? Any ideas?
05 Sienna just turned to 100K miles, AC went out over night. My mechanic traces to a leak in the front evaporator. Stated he would not touch it as requires entire dash to be R & R. 9-10 hours of labor plus $1600 for the evaporator case. Plus, new drier, plus new exapnsion valve and orffice tube, etc. all new stuff that is best practice to replace at the same time as evaporator.
Anyone know if the evaporator case can be rebuilt with new parts and put back into service for less than $1600? Labor is what it is.
Earlier took 05 Sienna to Stealership for Dash cracks and after note from Toyota. Stealership stated that they were not authorized to replace dashes yet. Im thinking what if I want to sell now? Diminished value.
2005 Sienna runs well but failed NJ inspection with P0420 code (cat converter). One repair shop said not worth spending the $1,000 as it's only a matter of time something else will fail and it still may not pass inspection after the cat is replaced. . Another shop said it's worth replacing. Advice appreciated! guidance!
These noises are easily heard and occur when the engine is turned on (whether the vehicle is moving or not) and sometimes occur for a time after the vehicle is turned off.
its a kea sorenomay be spelt wrong its a suv
I removed the Bank 1 & 2 sensor and it was black. Sensor 3 is clean. Twice over the last 6 months I have a foul order. I'm guessing the Cat may be bad, but how can I be sure?