15,156
questions

The speedometer does not work and there is problem in accelerating.

At stop and take off the vehicle has been shifting into manual 1st at will. The shift indicator also switches to 1 without touching the shifter. The RPMs of course raise so far not over 3000. My concern is this car shifting itself into 1st gear at freeway speeds.

Failed ABS with buzzing alarm

All the light work locks work with cop. When you push star button nothing happens. It lime a fuse is blown .

my 93 corolla with 250,000 miles
after running for 15 minutes,started
jumping ..runing fast then stopped-
after 30 minutes and so restarted
and drive for another 15-20 minutes
help!

Ok so my camry has 357k on it.. I've changed some stuff.. radiator,thermostat, water pump,timing belt spark plugs, wires, found out my head had 2 hairline cracks so got a reman head, car runs great ..a little below half way mark on coolant temp..now going up hills I notice the gauge gets a little lower than 3/4 of the way.. could this be due to the high mileage

I just purchased my 1999 Toyota Tacoma and I cannot get it to start. It acts like it is out of fuel. Everytime I open the drivers door the alarm goes off and I use the key fob to silence the alarm but still cannot get the truck to start. I would really like to disable the alarm for ever but I can't see to figure out how to do that and no matter what I do I cannot get the truck to start.

replaced the I.A.C. valve and E.C.T. sensor also the cold start switch

The car starts right up first start of the day or after sitting for about 6 hours or more.. also will start right up after turning off and immediately starting again .. no codes shown either.. plz HELP

the code scanner worked before about 3 months ago. I wanted to see id it was a crank shaft position sensor, so what do you all think ?

256000 miles

replace key switch, problem still exist. being the car is in this state it burned up my fuel pump. have anyone experience this problem?

When I am driving in normal conditions I hear a ticking or slight tapping noise while driving into or out of a right sided curve in the road then it seems as if my Toyota Sienna doesn't want to excel rate or decelerate if the steering is still in a slightly right curve...this happens only if its a curve between 30-40mph on dry normal street conditions. This has happened several times in the past 6 months then about 2 months ago (only 3 times so far) My VSC & Trac lights on my dash started beeping & flashing at me while driving on the curve at 35mph (dry conditions) then once I was straight again it stopped beeping & the lights went out. I had very worn front tires & had them replaced 3 days ago & drove on the freeway at 60-70mph no clicking or tapping noise on curves & no lights on yet but tonight it's raining and it seems like as soon as I got on the freeway on curves it started to decelerate I couldn't hear the noise due to the freeway noise but I'm worried about driving any further should I get towed home 63miles or take back roads home 63 miles? The Trac & VSC lights are not coming on when the deceleration occurs tonight but I am scared by what I have been reading in Toyota chat rooms of other drivers

Gage show fast high temperature, but not over head motor

it on a 2001 toyota solara 2.2 new map sensor and plug from the dealer i can clear the code but it comes back on. If i let it sit over night the car runs fine the next morning but if i drive alot that day the code will pop on it also gives me a p0420 code sometimes

Even after the engine warms up, there is excessive vibration when it is cold out, is this caused by a sensor resistance that is sensitive to ambient temperature?

Back up lights don't come on

after i pulled the relay out the base of it continued to chattter is this a serious problem

We recently went in for scheduled check-up/maintenance. We were told that the battery did not pass. That was about a month ago, there have been only limited problems in that regard since. Then just Tues. night it simply would not start after only several minutes. We simply figured the battery had died, the next morning it started, we drove it home used it for the morning. It died within hours though. Friday morning we replaced battery, my wife said that prior to removing the old one it had power to do everything except turn it over. My son replaced the battery earlier today. Everything has power just like with the old battery, except full power now. It simply won't turn over. It sounds like it gets to the alternator then goes no further. We get no codes at all. and at the moment i'm assuming that where i hear and feel the clicking as it tries to turn over, it just does not do so. I will check to be sure. Her daddy was a Toyota Master Tech. and she has serious concerns regarding the ones here at the dealership due to what seem to be questionable or simply bonehead Techs. Other problems and fixes just seem pretty slipshod. This though i'd like to take care of so i know it's right and to see if things they say are not quite right really are'nt. They say tires are good and they are not, we had new front brakes done there tis summer. They already make the same grumbling they said were bad six months ago.

Headlights on,buzz.Headlights off no buzzing sound.Thank-you for your help!DIY

Push pedal 1/4 inch fine anymore no power

The noise is more of a "whine" - fairly quiet - and only when the car is actually moving forward while the brake is applied - noise is never heard while backing up with the brake applied. The frequency of the noise varies a bit but centers around 330 Hz. Noise is heard when braking at very low speeds (around 10 mph or less). Brake fluid level is normal. The noise can persist for a few seconds after foot is removed from the brake pedal. Heard the moment foot is applied to the brake pedal at low speed - even when braking is very gentle. Despite the noise, the car appears to brake normally but I am concerned of a potential problem.

The car starts but idle high and is weak.. what could be the problem

I have replaced pads,master cylinder, and booster. Bled brakes each time but I get two blocks away on testing and they lock up. I am baffled what can I do.

The fuse blows and when the gauges rent working the car has a hard time shifting. The rear lights work and the reverse lights work. The wiring harness in the trunk is broken in half. What do I need to do?

Won't go back up,without starting vehicle

the turn signals are not working in front
the lights work in back the right is flashing rapidly the left front wont come on is the front single element and the back duel element

When I apply a little pressure on brake pedal the raffling stops

Car over heats and radiator leaks since water pump pulley shakes during rotation

It the batter head is not removed when parked for the day, by the morning, it drains out.