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the usual 'D' For drive does not move the car fast enough. it also revs to '3' on the odometer before the car moves. i hope the transmission is not bad yet

when I open door it doesn't latch into place and will potentially slide shut while someone is trying to climb in. Can I fix it so it latches?

Does the 2011 3.5l motor have a timing chain or belt? Whats the recommend mileage replacement interval for such?

the dashboard lights never come on which makes driving in the dark difficult. also when i turn the headlights on instead of day runners my radio lights go off? im guessing wiring, anybody have this happen

drove about 60 miles and then started to get a miss and loss of power (particularly up hill) and the check engine light was either flashing or steady.

borrowed a OBD tester and got codes P0303/0306 cylinder 3/6 misfire. I see a "square" module on the front of the engine near the oil cap with an ignition wire labeled "3" and a second connector that looks like it leads to a fuel injector. The connectors are a mystery as I cannot figure out how to open them.

Because of the engine "V" shape, I cannot see if there is a reciprical "square" module and is the problem in one, both or not these modules?

Why does my 2006 Sienna 3.3L auto transmission usually hesitate for a second ot two when stepping on the gas after coasting (i.e. taking foot off gas while turning a corner while van is still moving and stepping on the gas again)? It happens about 90% or more of the time. It happens when engine is warmed up. Engine RPM's rise about 100 to 200 when I step on gas without transmission engaging. Then while the van is still rolling forward in Drive transmission kicks in with a jerk and van starts to accelerate again. I have no transmission problems that I'm aware of and all maintenance has always been performed as scheduled. Van currently has 113,301 miles on the odometer. My dad's V8 Tundra automatic does the same thing. I've been driving this van for a year and it had just under 100,000 miles on the odometer at that time. The van has had this problem from the time I started driving it. The check engine light is off as well as all other warning lights. The van has always passed Illinois emissions tests. I use regular unleaded fuel, 87 octane, and STP total fuel system cleaner every 3,000 miles.

my lights went out to my dash, when i turn on headlights,my radio light goes out

Wife tried to open it during a cold freeze. Can hear motor turning but will not open. Only moves upward slightly, when button first pushed.

Our 2010 Toyota Sienna recently had a CEL go on. Took to local repair shop and no codes were present using a obd2 scanner. Took to dealer and they said using a special tool they got codes u0123, u0124, u0126 codes. Recommended fix was to replace abs actuator pump. CEL is constantly on but only in reverse it turns off. I don't think it has anything to do with the abs because the abs light and traction control lights are not on. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

So I fixed it and the lights still on and I don't know what it is and I need a smog test and no one will do it

I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna. 3.3L engine.

When I am driving in normal conditions I hear a ticking or slight tapping noise while driving into or out of a right sided curve in the road then it seems as if my Toyota Sienna doesn't want to excel rate or decelerate if the steering is still in a slightly right curve...this happens only if its a curve between 30-40mph on dry normal street conditions. This has happened several times in the past 6 months then about 2 months ago (only 3 times so far) My VSC & Trac lights on my dash started beeping & flashing at me while driving on the curve at 35mph (dry conditions) then once I was straight again it stopped beeping & the lights went out. I had very worn front tires & had them replaced 3 days ago & drove on the freeway at 60-70mph no clicking or tapping noise on curves & no lights on yet but tonight it's raining and it seems like as soon as I got on the freeway on curves it started to decelerate I couldn't hear the noise due to the freeway noise but I'm worried about driving any further should I get towed home 63miles or take back roads home 63 miles? The Trac & VSC lights are not coming on when the deceleration occurs tonight but I am scared by what I have been reading in Toyota chat rooms of other drivers

We recently went in for scheduled check-up/maintenance. We were told that the battery did not pass. That was about a month ago, there have been only limited problems in that regard since. Then just Tues. night it simply would not start after only several minutes. We simply figured the battery had died, the next morning it started, we drove it home used it for the morning. It died within hours though. Friday morning we replaced battery, my wife said that prior to removing the old one it had power to do everything except turn it over. My son replaced the battery earlier today. Everything has power just like with the old battery, except full power now. It simply won't turn over. It sounds like it gets to the alternator then goes no further. We get no codes at all. and at the moment i'm assuming that where i hear and feel the clicking as it tries to turn over, it just does not do so. I will check to be sure. Her daddy was a Toyota Master Tech. and she has serious concerns regarding the ones here at the dealership due to what seem to be questionable or simply bonehead Techs. Other problems and fixes just seem pretty slipshod. This though i'd like to take care of so i know it's right and to see if things they say are not quite right really are'nt. They say tires are good and they are not, we had new front brakes done there tis summer. They already make the same grumbling they said were bad six months ago.

I ama looking to buy a 2006 Toyota Sienna with 159k miles and the owner said he's never replaced the timing belt. He said the dealership said if it went out it wouldn't harm the engine. From what I've read that maybe true if it's a non-interference engine but not if it's an interference engine. How do I know if it is or isn't?

while driving the 3rd row seat light came on and wont go out. my seats are stowed away and haven't been used in over 2 years the light just came on while i was driving.

This usually happens after idling a while or after a long down grade. It does not appear to be using oil.

there is not heat coming from the drivers side vents. there is heat on the passenger side and rear. the A/C works on all vents. only the two vents on the drivers side only blow cold air.

I had both rear hubs as well as the pin for the emergency brake line on the driver side rear wheel replaced. Immediately upon starting, the ABS, VSC and e-brake light are all on solid and the tire pressure light is blinking. The tire pressure light would not reset using the button in the usual manner. The mechanic said it was the "body module" and that it would need to be reset at the dealer because his machine couldn't do it. Is this likely accurate? Would unhooking the battery for at least 30 minutes reset the system?

it overheats, has white smoke fruity smell at first then gets stronger , when i let it park overnight i can barely get it to start, after about 20 minutes of driving it, the front of my vehicle shakes/wiggles/bobbles, but if dosent seem to overheat if i drive and keep the heat on medium...but then the car starts to feel weirder, can all this be happening because of a bad heatercore?

swaped coils and plugs and done compression swapped injectors fuel trims indicate ignition miss in cyl 2 and 6 more on 2 than 6 its only affecting bank 2 o2 switching both banks seems to stumble cold but run good for few minutes till computer has to start adding and subtracting fuel then it starts miss fire not imediaetly like it has to heat sink its self to start missing swapped parts and problem stayed in them cyl.

35,000 on sienna xle- ran great-
Filled with gas and rotated wheels.
Next day, hard start (like cheap gas)the AWD, TRAC LIGHT ON, rad FANS ON CONSTANT , NO cruise control , all of these things came on at once.

Doors get open, but using bottoms inside the car the close, not working. I need to close little bit at a time to close all the way which will take at least a min. to close.

My interior lights have always worked. Then one day they stopped working. All of them. Even the ones that are supposed to come on automatically when I shut off my car.

Sometimes when I'm driving on a straight, dry road, the anti lock brakes will kick in and the anti-skid light will beep and flash for a couple of seconds. There is no reason for this to happen and it's very scary when it does.

When I try to close the automated sliding door, it makes a grinding sound, shudders a little, and then opens again. I can't see anything blocking the track. It works fine if I hold the handle while it closes. But if I squeeze the handle for a second or two, it does the grind/shudder thing.

I need someone affordable but reliable!

When I get on the highway and go the speed limit.. I get off and go home. By the time I'm home my car is leaking in the front underneath the car.

I always turn on my brights instead of my regular lights and I'm not sure how to turn it off.

comes off with wipers

the button on the control panel is not working