36
questions

The fluids are all full, it's not running hot but there is smoke! The car have 95k miles & the smoke stops when I'm driving! Now when I start driving it makes a loud "clack clack" noise! Idk what it is but I'm afraid to drive it

Any chance at all that all of the following could require changing at the same time:
3 x O2 sensors
1 x air fuel sensor
I lost confidence with the repairer at this stage after 3 weeks and a huge bill. Took it to another shop who found that the ECU was faulty and they fixed it and the car is now fine. Just wondering whether I was ripped off by the first repairer?

Starts, then stalls out. No diagnostic codes, shops says they can't pull codes because computer out.

Noticed a gas fume smell inside my car after a long car trip. I only smell it when either the fan/AC/heat is on. Other than the smell, the car is running fine. None of the dashboard lights are on and my fuel level is not dropping rapidly. Took it to the mechanic and they are stumped. The mechanic thought he identified the smell when the hood was open - they changed the o-rings in the fuel injectors and also replaced two of the fuel injectors. I picked up my car the other day and the smell is still there when the fan/AC/heat is on. I've read up on this online, and most people who smell gas fumes in their car also have check engine/O2 sensor lights that are going off. But none of my lights are going off. Anyone have any ideas? If you do, please share, it'd be greatly appreciated. My car only has 100,000 miles and I would really like to fix the problem so I can keep driving my car!

Rebill transmission

It's auto,have had serviced and put transmission fluid in but car still seems to be struggling to get into gear,mainly low gears once it's going and past 60ks it seems fine and doesn't do it.Also check engine light came on today

I have spent $3000 on my Rav4 2001they replace my "ECU" and rebuild my transmission. After few months i find out that there's a recall on my car which is the "ECU" part. My car is already fix when i found out but toyota claim they will repair the car or they will reimburse the money if i have done my repair, also said that they can also pay for the transmission part only if caused by the "ECU" (recall) but when i send my claim application with everything what they needed such as original receipt, copy of payment either check or credit card or bank statement, i have done all that but yet they still wont give me my reimbursement. They sent me letter saying that they needed more detailed on my invoice saying why they replace the part and what was the caused for that replacement part etc etc etc. the point is they giving me hard time to get my claim but now i end up not driving my car anymore due to another problem i even ask the toyota if they can just fix my car instead of giving the money. But they wont approved my request and close my case instead due to lack of paper document. Does anyone knows how to deal with this kind of situation? Your help much appreciated. Thank you

All wheel drive, manual transmission, 2.0 liter engine, 200,000 miles. Acts like the clutch is slipping especially on inclines. Ne visible fluid leaks, and the slave cylinder functions when the peddle is pressed. Peddle linkage and bracket look ok. Bled the clutch slave cylinder which helped with peddle feel and engagement, but it doesn't engage well if the clutch is let out slow. Takeoff is better if the engine is revving and the clutch is dumped. Could anything like the master cylinder, slave cylinder, transfer case or differentials also be the cause? How would I verify the clutch is needing replacement myself? Thank you for all assistance!

I was driving and it died or stopped on me and won't start or even turn over

A friend had 4 new tires installed by a tire shop and afterward noticed vehicle pulling to the side, and front end noise. Upon inspection, the strut rod and nut had pulled out of the upper mount hole (most likely when it was on the lift)and was way off center under the mount "hat". The big nut was still on the strut rod, so we jacked up the vehicle, positioned the rod back into the mount hole, and lowered the vehicle. The struts had been replaced a couple years ago with aftermarket ones. Should the threaded rod, and nut actually be attached to the upper strut mount somehow, or does it just set in the hole with room to move? Thanks for any assistance.

2001 toyota rav 4 j

Already spent $1200 to check the engine and get a new alternator, but light is back on.

I had an engine check code of P0440 and using a scan tool cleared it but now Im not able to get these monitors ready for the smog test. It has been over 90 degrees for weeks. (Las Vegas)