1998 Toyota RAV4 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My truck just stopped running going down the road. A tester was put on it and said thise two sensors were bad. It wont crank
About 4-5 months ago I was driving my rav4 when I heard some squealing and grinding noises from under the hood I was told that its probably the cam belt needing replaced,I can't remember right off hand but I think it has 160-180,000 on the engine,I've been keeping it maintained regularly this is an issue that concerns me so after I heard the noises I stopped driving the vehicle and its been sitting ever since.I haven't had the means or way of fixing it,due to lack of hours at work. Any advice or concerns would be greatly appreciated
Hi, six months ago I purchased this car cheap cause of seized engine, so we did an engine swap of another used 3s( it was in pretty good condition, compression 175, sealed), but since that the check engine light is on, the code is p0401, so I put a brand new vsv, egr modulator and egr valve(non oem), then I cleaned with carb cleaner, cleaned the lines and checked them to be connected as supposed, and the problems is still there. As I changed those and the light keep coming, I decided to take it to the mechanic, I took it like 5 times to the first mechanic and he never could fix it, neither the second, the second one seemed to know more, but he couldnt, this one also tried cleaning the throtle body, the intake manifold.
One thing he told me is that the egr valve when you push it, the engine should start stalling, but it doesnt.
Is this an expensive repair and what else does a maintained Rav need at 150k miles? The dealership was pretty clueless.
When I start the vehicle all dash lights comes on for about 2 seconds afterwards they go off, but after about 15 min of driving the battery light comes on and the vehicle loses power steering and acceleration. But after turning off and on again it does the same thing. What is the problem, please.
Fuel gauge will go to full but only comes down to just below 3/4 tank even when empty. Low tank light does go on at the right time. I replaced the fuel pump assembly which includes the float with a salvage yard one. It also went to full but also stopped around the same 3/4 point. I put in a salvage yard instrument cluster. It still does about the same thing. There is just a tiny bit of difference between both pumps and clusters. I unplugged the fuel pump and turned the key on and the gauge will still not go below 3/4. Is there another test, wiring issue or should I give up and buy the $170 float/sender unit or do I have 2 bad fuel gauge clusters? I am stumped.
I don't hear any rattle sound when I starts the engine, it only makes this horrible sound when driving up a hill or overtaking another cars. is that timing belt or something else?
This is 2 door 4 wheels drive
If when I first start driving someone puts down the front passenger side window it won't go right back up but after driving for a while I can get it to go up although it takes some coaxing.
Are the 4 wheel drive labor hours more
THE VSV WAS NOT RECEIVING POWER. ASE MECH SAID COMPUTOR IS BAD. COMPUTER WAS REPLACED AND STILL NO POWER TO VSV AND CODE IS BACK? ANY IDEAS? ALL OTHER EMISSIONS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. THANKS