This problem has been going on for about 6 months now. Its been at the shop for the last few months and they couldnt figure it out. It started by sputtering and sometimes dying at stop lights. Then started stalling if you hit the brakes too hard. Sometimes after stalling it would take a minute to start and when it did a substantial amout of black smoke would come out of the exhaust indicating flooding/ richness. So i started replacing parts based on recommondations from other mechanics. New: fuel pressure regulator, plugs and wires, distributor assembly, fuel pump, egr valve, throttle position sensor, pcv valve along with intake plennum gasket, ive gone through all the vacuum lines and replaced quite a few. So now it will start up fine and idle great. It will run all day in park, reverse, ant neutral, but stalls as soon as you put it in drive. You can turn the wheels all the way right and back to center, but as soon as you turn the wheels left past center, it chokes out. It will also stall sometimes by just pressing the brake, with the brake booster vacuum line unhooked, it wont stall, so im assuming the booster is leaking somewhere. The power steering is also vaccum assisted, ive taken off and plugged up the two vacuum lines going into the control unit on the ps pump, and it still stalls when turning left. Im out of ideas. Thank you for reading. _mike

changed coil plugs distributor cap

once u get it to start it will idle for about 5 min or so but if u put it into gear to take off it will die every time or if u let it idle for 5 min it will die on its own i replaced fule filter didnt fix it put some sea foam in the tank didnt fix it i need help i want my truck back

I have had the vehicle to two different shops and no one can find the problem

Does the wiring harness in the engine bay connect to the one underneath the dash. Is it all one harness or do they disconnect from each other

This truck has been well maintained and runs perfectly. The truck made a whirling noise and I was told it needed the differential rebuilt. I spent $2,600 at the dealer and it makes the same noise. It still starts to make the whirring noise at 40mph and above just like before I brought it to the dealer. Now, they say the transmission and clutch needs to be rebuilt. I called them and they did not return my call. The transmission shifts perfectly. I noticed under the truck the third member housing is not the same as original on my truck. I suspect the differential is not rebuilt but probably from a savage junkyard. Where can I have an honest mechanic work with me and offer advice?

my timing belt broke and my cams are not in line with the crankshaft how do I get them all to line back up with to dead center?

This is the second vehicle I've looked at
At this new job. I'm sorry so many parts to
No avail.The tcc comes on smooth no sudden
Clunk. I'm glad I've put on no parts so far.
Writing down the question made sense. Thanks.


Could VSS cause this? Gas tank,fuel pump,computer,air meter
All replaced. EFI & open circuit relays stay on. Seems to be
A fuel problem. Turns over a lot after stall then stalls
When it begins to roll.

Removed fuel tank checked fuel pump...it works properly. Checked all related fuzzes-all OK! Checked efi relay clicks ok!
Do not get a power reading from the fuel power plug at fuel pump. What else do I check?

problem is not constant. when happens can turn key off and on quickly 4 or 5 times ,it cranks.

New clutch installed. New slave cylinder.