the turn signals are not working in front
the lights work in back the right is flashing rapidly the left front wont come on is the front single element and the back duel element

The engine harness needed is from the airbox cleaner to the fuse box. My truck is a '91 toyota tacoma 2 wheel drive. The engine harness is from a '91 4x4 toyota tacoma .

sorry forgot to include when the missing starts sometimes it starts running right again then check engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off it is a intermittent problem i've had it run fine 150 miles no prob. stop kill it go into someplace for a hour or so get in it start it runs great go about 5 r 10 miles and the missing starts engine light comes on then off and it runs fine

starts and runs fine after it gets to normal temp it will start missing on one cylinder had a diagnostic ran on it showed a distributer sensor bad replaced distr. now it starts and runs fine until it gets to operating temp. then number 2 spark plug quits firing took distr. back got another one still doin the same thing mechanic ran another diagnostic and now it showed rpm sensor bad he hooked a rpm meter up to it and the rpms are showing but no fire on number 2 plug

breaks light just turned on ,I added fluid and it was off but 10 min later it went on again and the fluid I had added was gone.

When we start the truck it runs for a short time but starts to die and when we pump the gas it tries to stay running then it stops. But it will start up again but does the same thing. It is parked in the drive way.

we have replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, Air flow valve. The car start it won't keep on running. It acts like its not getting fuel. It has 125000 miles

Chapter loses power when engine light comes on turn the key on and off and runs good till the light comes on

It is a new motor

Won't start until it cools down. Starts and runs fine. If I keep the hood up when it's parked, it will start and run. If I can get it moving , it will run rough for a few minutes, then it runs fine. It's getting a little more difficult to start in the morning than it used to.

After a few tries the engine will slowly crank over and then finally start. It runs fantastic after it gets goins, I only have a problem when I'm trying to start it.

I dont have fuse panel cover for the one in cab by driver side panel with fuse diagram. My dome light dont work and i need a fuse diagram to check for blown fuse

Ive been mech for 40 yrs but this one is a tuff one. I replaced fuel pump&filter and it starts and stalls in 5 sec. Its fuel injected and it has a starter injector which adds xtra gas at start up. How do you test all injectors with ohm meter and then test them with a stethascope. supposed to hear them humming. Is this correct? Do you know what else problem could be. I also replaced the regulator with a adjustable pressur regulator. Do you know these aanswers of good tests to make on injectors. Do you know what other problems could do this to the engine? Thank you. Please get back to me.

When the coolent temp gage starts to move something happens almost like a switch is flipped and up loose almost like 20 to 50 horse power ?

I have a 1988 Toyota pickup truck, 22RE engine. It's capable of having an AC unit. It's got all the connections. I took out the AC unit from the 1990 rec truck, both trucks have 22RE engines. Everything is brand new now that I put in my truck.There is only one thing different. The 1988 only has 3 wires, the negative, positive, and ground. The 1990 AC switch has 5 wires. What do I do? Do I convert the truck? Can you please help me on how to do it? I'm going to find somebody to help me but please can you give me the idea how. Thank you so much. I will wait for your answer. Mahalo.

This problem has been going on for about 6 months now. Its been at the shop for the last few months and they couldnt figure it out. It started by sputtering and sometimes dying at stop lights. Then started stalling if you hit the brakes too hard. Sometimes after stalling it would take a minute to start and when it did a substantial amout of black smoke would come out of the exhaust indicating flooding/ richness. So i started replacing parts based on recommondations from other mechanics. New: fuel pressure regulator, plugs and wires, distributor assembly, fuel pump, egr valve, throttle position sensor, pcv valve along with intake plennum gasket, ive gone through all the vacuum lines and replaced quite a few. So now it will start up fine and idle great. It will run all day in park, reverse, ant neutral, but stalls as soon as you put it in drive. You can turn the wheels all the way right and back to center, but as soon as you turn the wheels left past center, it chokes out. It will also stall sometimes by just pressing the brake, with the brake booster vacuum line unhooked, it wont stall, so im assuming the booster is leaking somewhere. The power steering is also vaccum assisted, ive taken off and plugged up the two vacuum lines going into the control unit on the ps pump, and it still stalls when turning left. Im out of ideas. Thank you for reading. _mike

My 1990 PU has 90,000 mi. I was told thru a local shop (not dealer)the idlearm, tierods, and other suspension components need replacing. Cost ~ $1,000. I'm also experiencing the same non-shift into overdrive (as mentioned in your forum) so a solenoid has been ordered and i'm fixing that first. Thoughts on cost/benefit for suspension work? Thanks!

changed coil plugs distributor cap

I have a 1994 Toyota pickup 22re you gotta pat the gas to start it it runs just fine but will not idle if you take your foot off the gas it dies what could it be