39
questions

Mechanic says no coolant leak into oil, no oil leak into coolant. Added 2 qts. of coolant and burped radiator. It takes about 5 miles of driving to heater to start blowing cold air. Temp gage goes to red overheat. Could it be the thermostat?

The rear window defroster light also comes on if I step on the brake pedal

It first started off when my back right wheel was changed a while ago, turns out a tire a inch smaller was put on by accident and took chunks out of the bearing to the point it almost completely seized up. The only reason I took it in was that the cars oil at temp light was coming on and it was pulling hard to the right and making noises. Got the tire replaced but now after 30 miles of driving it comes on luckly I had just reached my house but I am not sure if it is safe to take it to work and risk another break down. Transmission oil and its filter have been replaced. Any ideas on what to do?

My head gasket blew on the original 2.5L engine. Replaced with a used 2.2L and now have a bad ring. Suggestions? Some say subaru has a "throw away engine" and rebuilds don't really work. Rebuild or look for a new car???

Check engine light always on.Car has all new plugs,wiring,Tune up.2 years on rebuilt engine.Good running engine.No loss of Engine Power.New oil Change.All new Belts and hoses.New Radiator.New AC .5 Speed all wheel drive.Doesnt burn Oil.There however seems to be less Mileage per Gallon of Gas.New Tires

the check engine light comes on and off as well as the atoiltemp light it stall when I start it first thing in the morning and when I slow down for lights or stop signs some times its fine and other times it stall all the time

overheating- suspect air bubble in radiator

will not start, blinking lights, battery is charged

what is this? the ABS LIGHT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME. WHY? iS THERE AWAY THAT I CAN TAKE A FUSE OUT & ELIMATE ALL WHEEL DRIVE & SAVE ON GAS IN THE SUMMER?
THANKS

I took my 98 Subaru Forester (133,000 miles) back and asked them to check and make sure the oil filter and drain plug were tight. They said everything was o.k. but found that I had a rack and pinion leak and showed me where the leak was coming from...still had the drops of oil (usually when the car is parked overnight) but it didn't line up to where the "rack and pinion" leak was that they told me about. I took my car to a mechanic and he told me it was a FINAL DRIVE OF TRANSMISSION LEAK and quoted me a price of $1,100.00
to repair it. I "Googled" this kind of leak and it said it is caused by OVERFILLING the transmission fluid. I am wondering if the people at the oil change place (EZ Lube)topped off the fluid and caused the leak and if I should go get it drained out at a transmission shop (AAMCO)or if I need to actually get it RESEALED and pay $1,100.00? Please advise, I don't want to be taken advantage of, mechanics have a way of doing that! My transmission is a 5-speed.

There was a small leak detected in the high pressure line. Dealer charging $200.00 for the part, $50.00 for freon, and $200.00 for labor.

The battery in my car died four days ago. Originally, the car was boosted and started the day after the battery died, now when I try to get it boosted or put a new battery in, the dashboard lights come on and the alarm sounds but my car will not even act like it will start. What is wrong with my car and how do I fix it? Does the alarm or auto theft system need to be reset?

happens after 3-4milesof driving tran does not slip fluid full

Brake pedal travel gets very short randomly, then after braking, front brakes won't release; only happens when air conditioner is on.