I hear air hissing when I lift the hood. When I move the hose I can hear the air coming from under the hose. My car cuts off and stall wen I come to complete stop. Sometimes when I'm slowing down to come to a stop it cuts off. I need help!!!
Cars stalls and does not start back up, unless I wait ten minutes or more. Stalls at least three times a day. I tried replacing the Mass Air flow sensor; yet, the problem continues.
car starts up fine... but once the temp reach norm 180 degrees and u shut car off it doesn't want to start right . car will stall & hesitate trying to start back up. unless engine completely cools all the way down. If u let car idle and run at norm operating temp you'll notice the car running rough at idle and the check engine light will come on.
Engine stalls randomly when turning right mostly or when stopped too long.
Car will stall out of now where battery light comes on car shuts off and then put in it neutral and starts back up.
I changed my.mass air flow system and throttle sencer and my car still stalls to get gas what am I dping wrong y my car won't accelerate as normal
Shuts off on me with no check engine light on and when it shuts off battery light comes on and goes off once ! I don't know ??
My car would crank but I had to keep my foot on the gas to stay crunk. I disconnect the MAF (Mass Air Flow)and it stayed crunk with no assistance. I replaced the MAF for $138 from autozone and have been driving for 2 months now with no issues.
Our son's 2001 Chev Impala 3.4L V6 stalls in normal weather and when the weather is damp or rainy the engine runs very rough, misses and backfires. The vehicle also has failed the emissions test. The emissions report stated the possible failure was due to a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor and or Catalytic converter. I have replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor but the vehicle still stalls and runs very rough when the weather is damp or rainy. We had a new Catalytic converter installed before the emissions test.
My 3.8 impala stalled twice while my wife was driving. Like clockwork, it would shut down when it got to normal operating temp (about 175 per the temp gauge). There were no codes and no check engine light. I changed the crank position sensor and the problem didn't go away. I then unplugged the mass air flow sensor, and the car would run (not real well, but it would run and idle). Unplugging the MAF causes the computer to rely on other sensors to operate. Wish I would have changed the MAF first, because it was MUCH easier to do than the crank position sensor.
car stalls out while driving, will not restart until engine has cooled.
Car tends to cut off only when turning right at low speeds and I have to push the throttle down during starting for ti to start. Already replaced MAF 2 coils and a iacv
New mass air flow and crank sensor and still stalls ,and putts if accelerating over 30mph
Won't start at times left alone for about 15-20 mins then it starts up
It would stall at stop signs, going 65mph and replaced CPS, and so far so good.
I had this problem as well. The car started jolting or sputtering while I was driving it. The car would stall and die whenever I rolled to a stop. I had a heck of a time immediately starting the car again after that. Took it to a garage and it was discovered that the mass air flow sensor was bad. Was $300-400 to fix. Turns out, the part is about $100-150, and really easy to fix. Just look it up on YouTube.
Can stall when driving then shuts off after getting hot. Then after setting for a while it runs about 10-15 minutes before stalling and shutting off again
Engine stalled, replaced mass air flow sensor.
Still have the problem but is not an issue in the cold weather( winter )