49
questions

On Thursday my car died after about 15 miles put on I was going 55 and I felt it jump buck kind of kept going then bucked again and shut down. I tried starting it a few times no luck after 15-20 min started up ran fine. The lights stayed on for battery and oil and then went off.I took back to shop they said nothing was wrong. Drove it died again and again this is not safe and need some help please and how to figure out if it is that that I need....thanks

This started about two weeks ago After oil change
and lube

I smell oil when I have the air or heat on only, most of the time.

need to replace blower motor on this car. where is it & how to remove it?
thank you

I checked fuel pressure and got about 41 psi, started to pull coil packs to check for spark, but found plug cavities full of oil. Help please. Did find that rubber boots need replaced as well but where is oil coming from?

back right brake line ruptured. need length so I can fix car

pump.it is getting gas, but it will not start. it acts like it will start but won't. it has set for several months without being start. what can be wrong with it or what do I need to look for?

Using a brand new multi meter. Crank sensor is good I did get a reading on it bought a new one and still no start so took it back but cant get a reading on cam sensor. But cant find any info on testing one off car. Thanks

Installed new fuel pump, new fuel filter, new spark plugs,new coil packs, new cts, crank sensor is good.fuses are good relays are good.I jumped the fuel pump relay and it pumps fuel but will not work when key is cycled on.throttle body clicks when key is on it is clean also.was running fine then had this issue. Got it running again and the gas pedal was touchy like if u accel too fast it would die or if you acceled slowly then let off gas too fast it died real smoothly. Now just cranks and throttle clicks and no fuel pressure. Fuel pump and coils are ac delco. Plugs are gapped correctly. Tried a scanner it couldnt communicate.

The heater blower motor has stopped working. The problem started out as intermittently not working to not working at all now. I removed the motor and put it back in, thinking that the motor fan was being jammed against the housing or maybe a loose connection. It worked for a couple of days then stopped again. Research and talking with a couple of auto wrecker guys and my parts store the general consensus is the blower resistor. So here I am.

I have a Hayes manual for the 2000 - 2004 L300 and the description given appears to be incorrect. I tells me to remove the instrument cluster and then remove the right heater vent.(Cluster is on the left so why would anything to the right be accessible?) Anyways,("when all else fails, read the instructions. right?") I removed the instrument cluster and found a solid dash plate with no obvious removal screws/bolts. Searching the internet I've found references to the blower motor resister being on the right side of the vehicle beside/under the glove box. I pulled back the side panel and all I could find was the heater core.

Any help will be appreciated.

can it also go from good running and turn off engine and go in to a store and come back and it will crank but not start and if you wait then try to start engine and it will start and it sets two codes 1 is po700 and 2end one is po727 can you help think you

The engine is not hot according to the temperature guage. Why does it keep running 24/7 if I let it.