82
questions

Failed NJ inspection. did not wait long enough after erasing codes. I do not know the drive time or procedure to reset the sensors.

Wait an hour or 2 then it will restart. Also tried it in neutral same problem.

bug and it runs perfect for awhile. also last time it happened it burned a hole in the cap I replaced it.
What am I missing? also no engine lights are on

bug and it runs perfect for awhile. also last time it happened it burned a hole in the cap I replaced it.
What am I missing?

Throwing code PO325 knock sensor. Nissan site has no diagram for replacing knock sensor. Any body got any ideas or links to diagrams?

car was running fine as usual, doing about 55 and it began to lose power, sputtered, wouldn't excel. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel to the engine. Died. When attempted to restart-hard start, barely got it to turn over, missing, sputtering and wouldn't excel at all.
Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump and screen, cleaned MAF sensor. No change. Ran code and showed the distributor was bad. Had it towed to mechanic and he confirmed. Replaced distributor with a Duralast Gold from Auto Zone. Wouldn't even run for 30 seconds. Code said distributor bad. Got another one, ran for 30 miles, same thing, code says distributor bad, got a 4th one, it's hanging in (only driven 13 miles on it) but stalled once at a stop light and hard start after being turned off. Spoke to another shop (I know mechanics at both) didn't give them all of this history, they checked wires, checked this and that, ran code and the distributor is bad!
I then told him this was the 4th new distributor in as many days and his first question was "did you get it from auto zone?" Said yes, and he said it was no unheard of, even common, to get crap parts from them and that's way most shops don't.
Before I go spending an addition $400 on a dealer OEM distributor, I'm wondering if anyone else has had issues with this or with duralast gold distributors.
Thanks....

started dead miss changed fuel filter, didn't help, took it to mechanic no codes, drove home, got worse until won't start at all, changed fuel pump, started right up, heard knock in distributor, had bearing out changed out distributor, ran good for 2 days, now it will start up and run for 15 to 20 mins 2 or 3 miles starts spudering and finally dies and won't start until it sets for 30 mins, changed fuel pump relay no help

Wont start,
Died in middle of road, loss of power rpm were down and took allot to cold start it in morning's, would start but took a couple of mins to wake up then varoom it would go, but took allot to start,
motor temp was in the middle
bad gas mileage
Replaced all plug's,
Wires,
Cap/rotor
new battery
fuel cleaner
fuel filter
Was looking to see if timing was off took plug out cranked engine compression and spark were in time with each other
found that the coil was arching so replaced with new coil
Still no Starting,
I have 200,000 miles on it even changed the oil and air cleaner
then for good measure the air freshener in the truck...
Please some one help,
I just disconnected the air in take and shot started fluid.. nothing not even a burp
So should I buy a free sign for it now?

i changed the brake lines and bled them still no brakes.changed the master clyinder and still no brakes

I am a Do It Myself kind of car owner and I have a leaking valve cover. How difficult would this be to do myself?