8
questions

Please I need hel

It was sitting for a while before I bought it & the guy I bought it from is a car dealer/brake specialist but keeps trying to figure out the issue. The car would run for a good 10 minutes & then start locking.

I have to dis connect the ground feom batter before leaving the car

i have a 92 nissan 240sx and a couple of months ago it started chugging reall bad so i changed the fuel filter and it helped but started again a couple of wks later and i let it get down to the red light coming on for the gas and after that it started dying despite putting the walmart gas cleaner in from the pump. it started dying when i came to a stop and i put
some fuel cleaner in from oreillys and it did good for a short distance then it started again with the chugging and dying so i changed the fuel pump and it didnt help, so i changed the filter again after it wouldnt start-hasnt done that before but is just turning over briefly then conking out and does the conking out faster when i press the gas. checked the plugs and dad said they look normal-a lil charred but no gas smell. is there some electrical thing i need to check cuz those fuel injectors are 85 a pop and i got 4 and i am hoping it doesnt come down to doing that, i might have to take it to a mechanic to see if they can do a diagnostic...but that has to wait til payday. but any info would be great!!!!!

Firstly let me say sorry this is so long, but so is the nightmare of having it worked on. It began with starting issues, erratic starts at about one no-start in 15 to 20, then progressively became worse. It would click, but not turn over. Then as it became more often I took it to a Nappa Mechanic locally and he said it was the starter, he replaced it and I brought it home. The very next morning it did the same thing, so I called and he said to bring it back in the starter was probably faulty. He replaced it a second time, I brought it home, the next morning I tried to start it again and it did the same thing, he said to bring it in and after I did, the other mechanic in the shop opened the battery wells (which by the way THEY had just cleaned the terminals and put Vaseline on the wires a few weeks earlier as part of routine maintenance) the wells were dry as a bone and they said it needed replaced. (well yeah, especially if they didn't maintain it) Then after the new battery too, and almost 500.00, it happened again the next day, it wouldn't even make a noise when I tried to turn it over AND to boot, it wouldn't release the key.

I called the mechanic again, he said I "shouldn't leave the door ajar OR the key in it...!!!!" Hello, I have had the car for 10 years, it is garaged, I am not stupid, I would never leave the key in or the door ajar. so I took it back and he fiddled with the battery, said he couldn't make it reproduce the no start.

So I took it home and watched as it became worse, not having the additional funds to do more when I felt he not only let me down but insulted me. soooo,5 months later still all the while occasional no starts, Monday it wouldn't even start after multiple attempts, I called a tow truck and the driver opened the hood and with the key on, used a couple of screwdrivers to start it, he said it wasn't the starter or the battery, which I now believe it never was, he said to tell the mechanic it was between the keyswitch and starter. I took it to him again as it is close to my house and I thought he would see he had made a mistake, he called the next morning and said he spent 3 1/2 hours diagnosing it (even with all the previous information)So I now have a fee for 3 1/2 hours of him staring at it.

Can anyone give me ideas on what It SHOULD cost. I don't trust him anymore.

can it go bad from leak stop agent? wrong compressor oil? r134a in an r12 system with stock drier meant for r12?
or can the descant just be bad from old age?

I have a slow leak in Transmission Fluid.

i have a problem my car when it goes in first gear its running good but when i put second gear it looses power and after few second it gains power again