Please I need hel

It was sitting for a while before I bought it & the guy I bought it from is a car dealer/brake specialist but keeps trying to figure out the issue. The car would run for a good 10 minutes & then start locking.

Fan does not turn on now. Could it be the switch or fan that broke?

My radio, windshield wipers work intermittently. I have to shut the car off and barely turn the ignition to get them to work and when I turn it all the way over, they cut off.
Please help and suggest a repair shop near90004.


It's a 1995 nissan 240sx, 5 speed automatic transmission.

seems to be an electrical problem need help

After giving it gas even the windshield wprs cycle and the door chimes, all guages come on, voltage at batt is 11.5, at alt. output is 14.4, also runs shaky after putting it into gear(auto trans)cleaned iacv and other intake components, been on a bunch of forums, this isnt my first car job, so i need some upper tier mech help

I have cleaned the battery grounds and cables before, and the problem stopped. But that no longer fixes the problem

If I let it run at idle its fine but when I rev it up and let off it just cuts off, I thought it may have been because it didn't have back pressure but I put my 3inch catback on it and it helped but it still dies off fuel is good spark is good air is good . I don't know if it could just need tuned or what but I need help

I have to dis connect the ground feom batter before leaving the car

The bracket is attached to the clutch pedal with a pin and cotter pin pin and connects to push rod. It broke and I'm trying to remove bracket it and find one to replace it. Clutch pedal is on floor because of broken bracket. Can't seem to get broken one off.

I have an 1998 240SX SE Auto. Ever since I put 60K miles on the odometer, I've been getting frequent downstream Oxygen Sensor error codes via MIL. The service life from each replacement unit averages 30K miles. Presently, I have 128K on the car.

About two years ago, I had error code for a bad catalyic converter (I believe it was code 420). I had a new cat put in and a vaccum leak addressed. I noticed something strange after the repair, a decreased of 20%-25% fuel economy. I swapped out the air filter, no increase. 2 months later, I get another two error codes for a bad downstream O2 sensor. Again, I replaced it and no increase in MPG.

Present day, I barely passed a section of my smog (ASM Emission Test). HC readings were 57 ppm @15MPH + 30 ppm @25MPH. CA law allows a maximum of 58ppm/42PPM. Technican said it may be a bad cat or o2 sensor.

What is causing this routine failure in my O2 sensors?
Do I need to replace other routine emissions equipment (i.e., upstream oxygen sensor or pcv valve)?
What is causing my degradating MPG?
What can I do to save my replacement cat?

*note: pcv and upstream oxygen sensor have never been replaced.

I was told differential fluid and possible broken rack and pinion ... Is my car safe to drive? Its a manuel transmission Nissan 240sx se 1995

I have a 2 seater 280zx Datsun neither the air nor heat work. The fan do not come on. The Nissan place toll me I need a A/C control head and temperature trimmer. They no longer have the part from Nissan and I cannot locate the part at a junk yard or anywhere. What can I do? Please help. The car look like new

i have a 92 nissan 240sx and a couple of months ago it started chugging reall bad so i changed the fuel filter and it helped but started again a couple of wks later and i let it get down to the red light coming on for the gas and after that it started dying despite putting the walmart gas cleaner in from the pump. it started dying when i came to a stop and i put
some fuel cleaner in from oreillys and it did good for a short distance then it started again with the chugging and dying so i changed the fuel pump and it didnt help, so i changed the filter again after it wouldnt start-hasnt done that before but is just turning over briefly then conking out and does the conking out faster when i press the gas. checked the plugs and dad said they look normal-a lil charred but no gas smell. is there some electrical thing i need to check cuz those fuel injectors are 85 a pop and i got 4 and i am hoping it doesnt come down to doing that, i might have to take it to a mechanic to see if they can do a diagnostic...but that has to wait til payday. but any info would be great!!!!!

The car idled at 1100 rpms. I tried to adjust it with the idle screw, and it only dropped down to 900-800, and then the idle started fluctuating around that range as well. How can I fix this problem? I can't lower it any more with the idle adjustment screw.

when you accelerate from start it miss in gears 1,2,3 after that it's OK what could be causing that to happen

Firstly let me say sorry this is so long, but so is the nightmare of having it worked on. It began with starting issues, erratic starts at about one no-start in 15 to 20, then progressively became worse. It would click, but not turn over. Then as it became more often I took it to a Nappa Mechanic locally and he said it was the starter, he replaced it and I brought it home. The very next morning it did the same thing, so I called and he said to bring it back in the starter was probably faulty. He replaced it a second time, I brought it home, the next morning I tried to start it again and it did the same thing, he said to bring it in and after I did, the other mechanic in the shop opened the battery wells (which by the way THEY had just cleaned the terminals and put Vaseline on the wires a few weeks earlier as part of routine maintenance) the wells were dry as a bone and they said it needed replaced. (well yeah, especially if they didn't maintain it) Then after the new battery too, and almost 500.00, it happened again the next day, it wouldn't even make a noise when I tried to turn it over AND to boot, it wouldn't release the key.

I called the mechanic again, he said I "shouldn't leave the door ajar OR the key in it...!!!!" Hello, I have had the car for 10 years, it is garaged, I am not stupid, I would never leave the key in or the door ajar. so I took it back and he fiddled with the battery, said he couldn't make it reproduce the no start.

So I took it home and watched as it became worse, not having the additional funds to do more when I felt he not only let me down but insulted me. soooo,5 months later still all the while occasional no starts, Monday it wouldn't even start after multiple attempts, I called a tow truck and the driver opened the hood and with the key on, used a couple of screwdrivers to start it, he said it wasn't the starter or the battery, which I now believe it never was, he said to tell the mechanic it was between the keyswitch and starter. I took it to him again as it is close to my house and I thought he would see he had made a mistake, he called the next morning and said he spent 3 1/2 hours diagnosing it (even with all the previous information)So I now have a fee for 3 1/2 hours of him staring at it.

Can anyone give me ideas on what It SHOULD cost. I don't trust him anymore.

how often should it be changed

cost to repair brake fluid leak

check engine light wont go off, noone can figure out why.

it will shift if I turn the car off and restart or keep car at a steady speed for a short distance (300 feet or so). Could it be the computer.

This happens 10 percent of the time. Can make car shift by stopping the cad and starting over or driving the car at a steady speed for about 300 yards.

can it go bad from leak stop agent? wrong compressor oil? r134a in an r12 system with stock drier meant for r12?
or can the descant just be bad from old age?

I can hear the a/c turn on but it does not blow air. Sometimes when I hit a pothole or something it turns on.

My speedometer is not working anymore.. all the other gauges work, just not the speedo. I replaced the cluster along with the speed sensor. And it still wont work. any suggestions??

Do i have to remove the spindle nut to remove rotor?


I'M having problems with my 93 nissan 240sx , it will crank when it sits overnight , but after you start it , and cut it off for a few minutes it wont crank back until it seats along period of time , but when it doesn't start it still is firing , has good fuel pressure , and when it wont start I even sprayed some starter fluid into the chamber , and it still doesn't crank .

I have a slow leak in Transmission Fluid.

look at timming