There are no gasoline marks on the floor, if not started there is no gasoline odor.

Mitsubishi Outlander 2005 patrol and gas morning hard to start and after start engage the engine automatically engine shut up.

When engine working temperature goes everything is fine.

It makes a bad crackling sound when i let off the clutch an it is even worse when the car starts to move. I got the car a month ago. All fluids are ok. It started the noise a week ago. But today its leaking oil out as fast as u put it in. If u are driving it. Barely drips oil while in park an cut off

I have taken the car to two different dealers and they gave me their estimate of what it might be. I get it fixed and think that it's o.k no sound a week later it comes back again. They are puzzled and don't know what is the cause.

I replaced the battery fuse and reconnected my battery. It turns over but there is no gas getting to the carburetor. Is there a safety shut off somewhere that was tripped and I need to turn back on?

Recently, I noticed that my DRL's didn't turn off when I turned off the key in my Outlander. Since then, I've also noticed them turning on randomly some time after the vehicle has been parked (key off and removed). I have also noticed at times, the fan blower will still work after the key is switched off, but that problem is not correlated with the DRL problem (happens when DRL's are working as expected.) I would like to have a schematic of the DRL system and understand how the DRL is triggered. Does the signal to activate DRL's come from a contact on the ignition switch (IG1, IG2, ACC), does the ECU send it on an SWS pin, or does it rely on telepathy with the driver?

We had new brakes put on the car last summer and since then we've had both front calipers break, both back calipers break twice and now one front and one rear caliper have broken.

little room to assemble shoes with adjuster and antirattle spring behind hub have removed rotor and drum.

Clutch is slipping from 2nd to 3rd what is the cost of clutch repair

Clutch is slipping

even with the heat on

when i start out theres no noise only when i've been driving and i slow down to a stop it makes that noise

We're getting our car inspected. The mechanic said we need 1 outer tie-rod, $120, 1 sys-link (not sure of the spelling)$100, and 2 rear shock absorbers for $400. Does this seem reasonable?