2001 Jeep Wrangler Questions
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I just purchased a 2001 Jeep Wrangler. It only has 70K miles. I drove it 2,000 miles back home. No problem on the drive home. When I arrived home I checked the radiator coolant and noticed it was low and added about a quart of antifreeze. Looked fine when I took off. I also noticed some water/condensation coming out the exhaust afterwards. I completed a compression test (all plugs out/throttle wide open/4-5 cranks) #1-130lbs #2-140 #3-120 #4-125 #5-140 and #6-70 lbs. I squarted a little oil in #6 and retested and went up to 80lbs. I believe this is normally pointing to bad rings but keep in mind the vehicle set for about a year before I purchased it. I've squarted some PB blaster in the plug hole and I'm going to retest tomorrow the compression. It appeared to have been running fine, good power, no smoking, all the plugs good good (grayish color).
I have an 01 Jeep Wrangler sport (manual). It is on 35's and has a 4 in lift. Every time I
shift it throws the jeep to the right really hard. Also it shakes VERY bad and
you are never able to keep it straight. It is very hard to control the steering
and is getting scary to drive.
Could my tires be off balance or is it something more?
Car has to be warmed up before it shifts into reverse
Turn key, hear a click, instruments come on but starter will not engage. Reports that there is a problem with ignition in steering column but no fix. How can I fix this problem?
My jeep will crank by pushing off or with a screwdriver, but won't crank by the key. Is it my switch or could it be something else?
I took my wrangler into the shop to have the rear axle and transfer case replaced. At first the mechanic was going to charge about $4500 for parts and labor. So I found parts at a salvage year for about 1200 total. The mechanic does the work a day after recieving the parts and says his "guys" (more the one person) spent 12 hours ($99 per hour) working on it and is charging $1300 for labor which also included a battery replacement. To my knowledge those are both bolt on part along with the brakes for the rear axle. Am I wrong to assume that I'm being over charged cause I was expecting more like $700 to 800 for the labor.
After it heats up and I shut it off I have to bleed the injector rack before it will start then I still have to keep pumping the gas to it clears out the I can drive
console and air slowly turn on when key is in the on position
Engine cranks over but does not start, here is what I have tried so far with no luck......starter fluid in throttle, new crank sensor (two times), new cam sensor. No dash gauge (fuel or volt) movement with ignition in the on position. I get a brite test lite reading at one terminal (ASD fuse) terminal and a dim test lite on the other (ASD fuse) terminal with ignition on the on position. I am getting no power to the 20 amp injector fuse...any thoughts on what is causing this????
It happened one time then within the last 2 days it happened both days. If I sit for 10-15mins it will start back up and get to where I need to go. I had the codes read and they came up as cylinder 1 miss firing and then something to do with an emission vapor something something??? if you have any suggestions I would so appreciate it. Thank you
How much should this cost.
the end of summer. What part do I need replaced. The upper box would not let me type any further.