Jeep Wrangler QuestionsRefine by vehicle
It appears to come through the firewall or kick panel junction inside via the air space under the cowl.
Doesn't come on .is there some other fuse or relay panel other than the one under the hood
It just turns over like it's not getting fire.
the screen on my radio fades in and out. took the dashboard off and there was water and rust around the radio. where is the water coming in and how can I stop the leaking?
Jeep has set a few years not driven often. Sometimes fuel pump kicks on fine but sometimes will not at all. Checked fuses and they are good.
Check engine light comes on and off. It will crank up and go dead and ECM has what looks like oil in it
I filled it up with gas and it started missing, then, it would start and go dead but will crank right back up. It also back fires from time to time. I replaced the crank position sensor and have done a few tests on it. All i have seem to have found is it looks like oil in the ECM. I have never seen anything like it. What do you think it might be.
top of rear shock is not connected to anything what part do I need besides shock? bracket and or any bushings??
2011 bought new. Regular maintenance, turned in for recalls. Not driven hard, some 4 wheeling on hunting property. 36,000 miles. Driving on highway sudden pop pull over and oil leaking from bottom. No warning lights or nothing. Use synthetic oil from beginning.
someone tried to steal my jeep and damaged the door, so I´m trying to find out if I only can change the frame of the door, instead of replace the door.
Car has to be warmed up before it shifts into reverse
Needles bury to zero in speedometer and tachometer, and check engine light comes on. Vehicle does not die, stall, jerk or anything. .... Yet. I
I drove an hour 65/ 70 mph and was almost out of gas stopped to get gas @ some place I always do , vehicle would not start. acted like battery was dying , turn over maybe twice would not fire, and then show sign of like loss of power . tried again / nothin.
waited 20 min & started up like nothin happened 30 min later shut off again. same thing would not start . left it came back two hrs. later started up again like nothing happened drove 65 mph/ 70.45 min to store . turned off & tried to turn on came on? again came on ? like nothin happen hour later started, drove 20 min 65/70 * 20 min 30 /40 mph used short distance roughly 20 min a day later . no problem 40 mph Monday started off no problem 30 mph 20 min. & to 65/ 70 MPH 20 MIN THEN! In 4th Gear while shifting to 5th
Began to buck & loose power no throttle power at all as no gas.
Note : One two weeks prior to this I did loose my serpentine belt due to a faulty stationary fly wheel which had to be replaced But for two weeks I had no issue's what so ever! & the problem only was occurring when I shut off engine not while driving. I do hear a slight noise coming from gas tank as per pump maybe? engine turns over and gauges all seem to want to show & work but rough when try's to start but wont
Could it be alternator going out?
i would to prohibit the tear from spreading. it's located at the end of where the top hooks under the rim by the top of the window
I'm aware front left shock in need of replacement. So I am replacing both front. Steering is not a problem for city use or speeds up to55- 60 mph. Above that & oddly not always, jeep becomes hard to steer. Steering becomes difficult & shakes violently until speed is reduced. 1st incident I thought I had blowout & pulled over to replace. I know that shocks wouldn't cause all of this. Maybe ball joints, tie rod? Am I overlooking something else equally important?
Rear wiper wouldn't turn off. Control switch on dash wouldn't release wiper. Continued to run,draining cleaner reservoir. Removed hose to prevent fluid loss. Think rear wiper motor attached to rear hatch windshield needs replacing? Looks like a trip to the boneyard unless something I've overlooked & that could be a real possibility. Helps to be smarter than what you're working on. That tends to a challenge for me & auto repair. Don't mind doing it if I knew what it was I was doing!
I just bought a 2013 Jeep Rubicon. The dealer tells me the popping I hear when I turn either right or left is from the after market rock rails that were on it when I bought it. Other than remove them: what can I do to stop the noise? I need the step to get up into the jeep.
I'm thinking maybe the gears are grinded out or maybe the sychronizers are shot.
It has new plugs, cap rotor wires, distributor. Tried both techron and seafoam.
Clears when throttle opened wide. No codes! Starts about 5 min into a drive. Changed computer, no effect.
Did compression test middle cyls extremely low outboard cyls low as well.
Added a cap full of oil yo each, jumped right back up. Fuel washing oil off cyl walls?
Added 4 Oz of marvel mystery oil to each and left over night.
Ran great next day, then started acting up again.
It's killing me. Haven't driven it for a long time now.
There is no pressure regulator on the fuel rail, or I would have tried that next.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Rear wiper wouldn't turn off. Checked motor housing mounted to rear hatch window. Had to remove line from cleaner reservoir so not to waste fluid.
Sounds like compressor will run but no air. Same situation with heater.Black exterior & interior. In DFW area. Man I'm dying. Must be 120 degrees inside furnace on wwheel!Easiest & least $ is my approach. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
if we wait eventually it will start or if we put another sensor in it starts happens everyday
Tilt wheel moves up and and side to side . It will not lock.still steers good.
Turn key, hear a click, instruments come on but starter will not engage. Reports that there is a problem with ignition in steering column but no fix. How can I fix this problem?
My wrangler has 1700 miles on it and my check engine light has turned on 5 times. Each time I've taken it in the dealership I bought it from says they can't fix it, after they took my jeep apart multiple times. The code that is being thrown is a random engine misfire and supposedly it's a stored code, I know nothing about cars so I'm very confused and frustrated in this situation.
Won't let me use keyless entry anymore.
mine was running about 198 and now has started to run around 210. Is this normal for the 2.5?
what causes it to leak done everything right by the manual