2003 Hyundai Accent QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The smaller ones coming from the oil block
I have a Hyundai Accent 2003 automatic with a little over 170,000 miles. I have personally replaced all fuel injectors but I still have this intermittent problem of the engine shutting off. It occurs when my car is sitting in traffic or sitting for a long time at a drive-thru. I do not believe it's electrical because while the engine shuts off the radio continues to play.
Typically when this happens, I shut off the car completely, then immediately restart it. Today is the first time that it did not immediately restart. I was sitting in a drive-thru listening to the engine and I could tell it was going to quit soon because, it sounded like it's "breaths" were drawn out, I don't know how else to describe it. The engine turned off, my radio was still on and I shut off the car completely and when I tried to turn it back on, I could hear the engine trying to turn on but it would not. I let my car sit for five minutes and I tried to turn it on and boy did it struggle to turn on! While it did turn on the car began to vibrate and it seemed it would shut off again so while I was paying for my order, I had the car in park and then gave it the gas. It seemed when I gave it gas it wouldn't vibrate as much. Anyhow, once I got out of the drive thru and on to open road where I can keep the gas going, the car leveled out.
Now originally, I was going to just replace the crankshaft sensor because it's a cheap enough part but this is the first time it's vibrated during such an episode and I'm beginning to wonder if that means it's not the crankshaft and instead something more.
Additional background information: I have an inkling that my fuel pump (?)
needs to be replaced because when I was topping off my gas, my car would shake the same way it shook today. I have stopped topping off my gas and I didn't feel the shaking since, until today. My tank is currently half full so I do not believe it's the fuel pump that caused the shaking this time.
Any help is greatly appreciated as I am on a very tight budget and intend to fix this myself.
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Due to leaking fluid, I replaced the output shaft seal on pass-side, added a couple of qrts & the seal failed after a month. I noticed that I can move the half shaft up & down about a quarter inch at the seal & when put in R from P a slight knock. Despite the leak & knock it drives like it's a new car. What does the lil wiggle room tell you? (I have torqued the axle nut to Hyundai specs.) Do I need a new seal and a output shaft seal repair sleeve to take up slack or is a bad disc? Don't want to remove it if I don't have to. Thanks
2003 Hyundai Accent no brake power. Began as screeching/grinding sound on front passenger side with or without applying brake foot pedal. Some pulsing occurred for short time. Now all brake power for car is gone and brake sensor light is on. Emergency brake still works.
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My theft lock is in my remote controled starter. The starter doesnt work properly anymore and my car wont start without it, or i need to wait 15 minutes to override it. Can i uninstall the theft lock? How do i do it?
transmission code do not come up, but I was involved in a accident hitting a curb damaging the passenger side axle, rack & pinion, control arm replaced parts. But there is a noise that started to sound after replacing the parts from the transaxle area it also vibrates & shakes the transmission
The engine light is on and reads evap prob. Is there a recall on the fuel system?
When you mention P0133 code possibly being cause by an exhaust leak what kind? like fron the exhaust mainfold? the flex pipe? I notice lately that my car sound a ittle louder than it did before. and I already replaced the oxgen sensor on bank 1 sensor one and erased the code and now it just came back. so I'm wondering if it is the exhaust leak. looked for amaged or cracked vacuum hoses did not really see any or bad connection or wires.
My mechanic replaced my transmission because the codes were coming up on his diagnostics machine. However, the car was still driving rough (slow at accelerating from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th and try to stall but then jerking back into geat). He thought the transmission replacement may have been had so he put in another one and it continued to do the same thing. Now he is mentioning replacing the engine control module. He is usually very honest, however, I have been reading in others areas that this might not be necessary? Please help with this if you can. Also, he is saying the part itself is around $1,000, but I heard mention the part with labor should only be around $1,000. Please input on this if possible, as well. Thanks in advance for ANY help for this frustrated car owner!