36
questions

My CEL came on. I took it to auto zone, they told me that it was my fuel filter/pump. I then took it to a shop and they said a fuel filter will not cause your CEL to come on. They hooked their scanner up to my truck, then told me it was my rotar cap for spark plugs (I think) and my o2 sensor. I've gotten the rotar cap replaced since they said I can go longer without getting the o2 sensor done. My CEL went off after replacing the rotar cap bit came back on 2 days later. Do I really need to replace the fuel filter or the o2 sensor? Oh by the way, the truck hesitates like it's going to cut off while I'm stopped at a stop sign or traffic light......any advice?? Please help lol

I replaced rotors, upper control arm, pitman arm, idler arm about 1000 miles/6 months ago. Replaced brake master cylinder about 9 mos ago. Replaced power steering hose (turned engine on in process / degreased after replacement).
Immediately after degreasing, serpentine squealing warranted replacement of belt, idler & tension pulleys. A day or so after replacing the belt & two pulleys, I noticed idling mph impeded and coasting distance to stop affected. Total of 2 miles driving over the next two days and I brakes were engaged to the point that I chose to drive in 1st gear for the two blocks to my house. Replaced caliper at the suggestion of my auto parts sales/service rep. Brakes were fine for about ten pushes and, then, locked up again. Both sides smoking in the cold air (and smell of overheated pads big time). Frustrated and am praying for some guidance to most logical order / procedure to troubleshoot the source(s) of this problem. Thank you in advance for your consideration.

Thinking vapor lock but not sure

2000 GMC Yukon Denali 5.7L
I swapped Cylinder Heads for a pair of used Cylinder Heads due to the first pair being cross-threaded. After properly installing Heads and torquing them down, we then began to align crank up with TDC Mark and then aligned rotor on distributor to the distributor cap mark. After that, we tried to start it, but it would only just turn over but not start at all. The belt would turn the pulleys and all, but it just seems like it isn't making that starting sound. The fuel pump kicks on and its getting fuel. So we then removed spark plug and decided to put my finger on the hole while the Mechanic used a wrench to turn the crank until I was able to feel air, but no air would blow on my finger at all. So we then removed valve cover and aligned the valves at TDC until both were closed, then put everything back together and still no start. Mechanic then had checked for spark at the #1 plug by removing plug while I tried to start it, and it was getting spark, PLEASE HELP

A week ago my denali stopped going into park. It just stayed in reverse. The lever would go all the way up, but the dashboard light stayed at reverse. This morning i went to start my car (by putting it in neutral since i cant get it to register in park) and now tge light on my dash just stays in reverse. I have no idea what im doing, but need to get this fixed by myself. Any advise is appreciated, the more detailed the better.

4wd makes a bad noise in 4wd gm says theres a recall on other vins but not mine but i have the same problem what do i need to do

I tried. Everything. I need help.

I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali, the radio comes on with no sound, door locks only work with remote, back hatch dont work, All this quit working at the same time, HELP

Start issues also ruff idoling at a light had fuel pump check got good pressure fuel guage sapiens around when starting oil pressure guage reads Fine when drops after driving 20 miles when I Drive not good power on take off go yo a Store cut offmy suv come back and I have to give gas to start it when it does start it is sluggish...

It has 200,000 k. Are there any other issues i need to be concerned with.

i changed my transmission! 1st problem motor wouldnt start unless i went to starter. seems the small wire no longer worked. i figured we pinched it. so we ran another wire to crank fuse.it only had power when starting truck.i noticed gear shift light was out!(whatever)so anyway it worked this way for a week.then a quiet clank and then i lost all gears at about 10 mph.when i shift threw gears motor idle doesnt change what happened?please tell me!i would rather change an eletrical part than the whole transmission! thanks for any suggestions.

my car started making a loud noise underneath my truck an was told it was my transfer case need help fast part is too high

worried about ffuel mileage