GMC Yukon Questions
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when turning on defrost, heat, or ac with the 1 or 2 air speed on dial it makes a very loud noise and does not blow any air out. what do i need to have repaired?
It was driving fine then it wouldn't go please help me
I have replaced head gaskets, checked valves and lifters and they are good. Replaced spark plugs, distributor cap and still get the code P0300 and no check engine light
When ever i run my a/c or pull my boat my engine starts to run hot ..i change my water pump and all belts and thermostat ..cooling temp sensor and all hoses ..and was told air might be in system but had that looked at also ..if i sit in traffic or stop at lights it runs hot as soon as i start again or turn a/c off it returns to normal temp .. I even run dexcool as directed
Sounds a little like somthing rubbing andtumpping sound on drivers front end
need to know if the tires will fit
My heater fan stopped working, Rear heater fan works fine. Controls & fuze fine. Had some intermittent problems, a delay after turing on, but now has stopped
Leaking oily like fluid and steering wheel top points to the left but vehicle drivers almost straight
door locks not working
writing from Italy . typhoon 1993 .electrical problems after replacement of engine of my typhoon in 1993: before dismounting it was all right, now the water temperature indicator rises slightly and comes light on the engine problems after a few seconds. We changed all temperature sensors, thermostat, but nothing changes. the engine ,cold or hot goes in motion, but cold if you switch it off after 1 minute, switching on again if seems flooded. tester says that water temperature is very low. we no longer know what to do. Thanks if you can help me
where is the knock sensoe located on 2001 gmc yukon
it runs great but didnt pass emisson test
Smelt like it overheated or something burned out. Then i noticed the PRND12 went dim. Then all the dash lights went completely out. Had a weird feel to the rest of the way home. I knw oil may be a bit low and i need a oil change too.
it runs rough when idling, but runs great when I get going and going down highway. starts great. check engine light keeps coming on. I replaced injectors. replace mass emissions sensor. new fuel pump. new spark plugs and wires. still does it. 2 shops can't figure it out. any ideas. I have spent over 4k on this.
True key to start potion 4x4 lights come on then imedetle turn off
problem just started after I left the rear doors open after unloading
Map . collant sensor. Tbs
Recently got an oil change and a new battery no when I hit a bump or press the brakes paddle the radio changes station
on star cant diagnose the problem since radio doesn't turn on . already tried shutting car roff locking doors wait 4 min go back in car turn it on still no radio or on star booth green and red on star buttons not working
The problem occurs always
Oil looks like brown mud and truck has no pressure
A ticking noise when starting up
I was shifting gear to back up and suddenly was not able to shift gear and the gear shift lever seems loose and will not shift to any other gear and seems to be stuck in drive
no fuse panel cover to indicate location of brake light fuse
Okay, so this is the third forum I've tried, so hopefully third time's the charm. My problem is this: My 1996 GMC Yukon 4x4 selector lights (push button) all come on, including the Neutral light (even when the vehicle is not in Neutral). I have checked the fuses, I even swapped the 4x4 fuse for good measure. The buttons do nothing when pressed (no change in lights, no sound from underneath the truck, etc., so I'm thinking that this may be an electrical issue rather than mechanical).
Any help or at least a push in the right direction would be appreciated. I plan to turn this Yukon into a project mud/offroad truck, and obviously wouldn't get very far without 4x4!
I want to adjust my seat settings myself and they not move or change settings when I get out of auto.
It makes a grinding, louder than if it were pads it also feels like something is a loose and wants to fall from up under the car when I drive it
I've never had a problem with my a/c until I picked it up from the repair shop this past week. My 2005 Yukon has the Auto Tri-Zone A/C & Heat feature. I took it into dealership to have the 3-2 solenoid they said the hole casing/harness had to be replaced in the transmission which I don't know about but anyway I had them replace the filter. My Yukon has 105000 miles on it. I didn't want them to replace the fluid because nothing was wrong with it and I thought it would cause more problems so they took half out so they could do the repair and then refilled and that was all. Now the front A/c in my Yukon does not function right. the back works just as it always has and it very cold and is working properly. When the front does work it works at all levels (can be turned high and low speed) and is very cold as usual but doesn't always turn on and once the driver side vent didn't work but all other vents worked. when it does eventually decide to work as I'm driving in the 100 degree weather it comes on full blast on auto and I can then turn it down and direct the air flow from auto to blow through the vents and the floor board vents as well. When I called to let the dealership know that they needed to fix the a/c that they must have hit something they told me it would cost me 300 for them to look at it and could cost additional in parts and labor to fix. I was floored. Can someone please tell me if this was just a bad timing for me or did the repair shop do this? I kind of feel as though I'm getting overcharged but if not then I'm willing to pay. I just forked out $800 for the 3-2 solenoid and filter replacement.
The noise happens when turning, parking and backing up. Seems noise is around torsion bars.