138
questions

It wants to shift down then up, and on the level okay

Vehicle history: Truck started idling rough (should say "rougher" since I've always had a slight rough idol since purchasing the vehicle used in 2006) and misfiring about a year and a half ago. Then sat for 1 and a half years only being started and driven once in a blue moon. Now I need to get it back on road. In addition to rough idle, vehicle now has crappy acceleration and will shake when at around 45/50. Seems to not want to shift sometimes due to crap acceleration. Also, I get a feint smell of fuel after getting out of the vehicle sometimes but not every time I drive it (not sure if its from exhaust or from under hood yet) so I haven't driven it for fear of messing up cats.

First things I did was replace spark plugs, oil change, oil filter and I checked all the other fluids when I began this whole process.

Codes: Went to AutoZone and got codes P0174 and P2198. Check engine light was on back when this started a year and a half ago. It' still on and now newly flashing when I get going above 45 ish/use the truck for more than 10-15 minutes.

Auto zone suggested pcv valve but then gave me wrong $3 valve. Went another place and got correct one for $25. Replaced that. Also cleaned MAF sensor. Checked both pcv hoses and elbows which seem to be fine, especially checked one behind throttle body. All looks ok. Put water in each one and held to check for leaks. No leaks.

Plan to do: Replace fuel filter and swap o2 sensors from driver to passenger sides to rule out bad o2 sensor on bank 2.

On right path? What else should I do?

vacuum leak I cant find? Fuel injectors dirty? Fuel pump going bad? Bad cats? Coil packs? I hate these codes because it seems like there are so may things or combo of things that could be f upped. Also, is there an icv on 2004 Ford F150 stx 4.6 v8? I'll clean that tomorrow if there is one. I know most ppl say vacuum leaks but I'm honestly afraid to start shooting carb cleaner all over place and I have limited tools.

Someone suggested removing maf sensor for quick text drive. Did that and rough idle seemed to get better but still no acceleration. Also, when I replaced pcv valve and reset system, I swear it drove better that night. Next morning the rough idle and check engine lights came back (both staying on sometimes and blinking others).

Limited funds but would say I'm step or two above amateur when it comes to mechanical skills.

Please help. Need to get this fixed. Sorry if TMI...when I read questions without ppl being descriptive I go crazy. Thanks in advance fellas.

as the wheel rotates, there is an intermittent grinding or scratching noise. I've had the wheel off, pads are good, i thought a possible trapped stone. Can not be heard with wheel off the ground. I have not taken the pads off. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Also, my brights won't go off no matter how much I push or pull on the paddle. They won't reset after the truck has been turned off. I suspect the two issues are connected. Anyone else have this problem?

Well yup I have to fix it. What. Is best have the tranny shop rebuild it and 1 year warranty or one from ford with a 3 year warranty. Difference in price is $800.

Trying to locate the temperature coolant sensor on a 2004 F 150

the noise remains constant and follows the RPM of the engine - for example during acceleration. Again seems like a noisy alternator but there is no loss of power, etc.

In March I had the plug replaced by a mechanic. It had approx. 60,000 miles. Recently we took a trip upstate. The truck ran fine all the way. But when we started back it started to misfire and loose power when going up hills. Finally the engine light came on. Took it back to the mechanic and it showed a misfire on cylinder 7, replaced the plug which had a crack. Took it out on the road and it stared to miss again. It happens in overdrive and when the engine is put under load at around 2000 rpms or 65 to 70 mph. This time it did not set a code. I'm looking for a direction to go in order to solve this issue.

my truck runs rough at idle when warm low rpm changed plugs and all coils,runs good while driving but hesitates bad under load ,It has no check engine light on and never has good oil pressure,have ran injector cleaner,i have 115059 miles on it, sometimes it will shutdown in drive at idle but fires back up rpm is 500 to 550 after warm up

My 2004 F-150 is making a gurgling sound when i turn a corner or accelerate. You can easily hear water running thru the dash area. It is not loosing fluid at any measurable rate (if at all), and does not run hot. However, I can smell anti-freeze in the cab. Also, the defrost only works on passenger side. Any suggestions? Is this something I should take to a general mechanic? or to an Auto-Air type specialist?

replaced converter replaced now dealerships want me to replace o2 sensor. When they put it on the computer it only shows that there is an issue with the conveter.

Ive replaced the spark plugs coil packs

Reverse is fine . Can't go into drive without going into 1 and 2 first . And then drive is fine . But when I slow down or stop . Tranny shirts itself and drive doesn't work . So I have to go back into 1 and 2 and then drive again . Just rebuilt tranny and thought problem would go away . But it's back