Ford QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Clock - light is too dim
The fuses and relays are good. Help!
car runs normal when cold.after warm up ,car will not go above 3k rpm. no codes visible.acceleration is very slight and touchy.this happened after bad fuel was put into tank
I can not use my heads. 5.4 triton with flex fuel
Experiencing occasional long cranking starts. Having to turn key 4 to 5 times with pumping pedal until it starts. Truck has less than 60k miles. these long cranking issues happen @ anytime of the day or morning.
I started hearing a squeaking or rattle coming from the rear almost like the exhaust pipe banging up against something. It only did it in 1st 2nd and 3rd mostly. But today I heard it in 4th and 5th. Then when shifting to 4th gear it sounded like I was bogging down and 5th gear was the same way. I was going 40-45 mph, you would have thought I was only doing 15. It settled when I reached about 55 but sounded rough. I have no idea what is going on, but I hope it's not the transmission going out. Any help would be appreciated!
Everything else is working great.
The fan runs constantly for my heater and a/c. Doesn't matter if its on auto or manual.
I need to know where it is to remove it for resetting/replacement
My oil presure light is on in my dash and when u try to start the car it makes a single click why wont my car start changer alt. Batt. And checked fuses and fuse relays what could it be????
I have less than 2000 miles on the truck and the gears disappeared around 1200 miles.
When I try to accelerate, it accelerates very slow and sometimes there is a shaking that occurs at around 50mph but goes away once it goes faster, it won't go above 65, is there anything I can to do to stop the shaking and give it enough power to travel highway speeds
Sounds like it's miss firing
trying to find a used tranny
Making a loud noise when i do not have foot on gas and everything will turn but the crankshaft wont turn the belt it just spins.
Above the windshield before the sunglasses compartment is a button that says select and a window. This does not light up. Owners manual says it displays outside temp and compass direction
It already has a new master cylinder and the brakes were just bled
The brakes are having to be pressed hard and feel spongy. Has to be pressed nearly to the floor. Took to Big O and they did a Brake Fluid Exchange. Brake Fluid Flush Service included Kit and brake fluid. Now there is a leak around the (right side mainly) of the shifter. Looks clear similar to white or clear oil. Breaks still have to be pressed hard. Big O says brakes are fine but they are not. Should not have to press on the brakes this way. Please help
and the 4 wheel drive will not disengage automatically have replace the hub assemble on passenger front cause that seems to be where the vibration is coming from and the bearings were replaced had a new transfer case module and motor also installed
EGR causing 4.2L Engine to shake ??
2000 E150 4.2L V6 (146,000 Miles)
The EGR system starts working when coolant sensor says 115 F then at 1950 to 2050 RPM engine starts to shake like a front loader washing machine!!! In Drive the most in Park a little.
Changed the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EGR control solenoid. Checked voltage to DPFE bottom wire (Ref) 5 vdc but top wire (Sig) fluctuates between 1.05 vdc and 1.8 vdc with different throttle positions. (I thought its suppose to be between 5.0 vdc and 6.0 vdc but that would be impossible with a 5 vdc supply) If I disconnect the vacuum hose to egr valve and plug it or if the coolant temp is below 115 F the van doesn't shake.
We checked the EGR tube and vacuum hoses all ok. Secondary butterfly valves open fine at correct RPM. New Spark plugs, wires and coil. Had our mechanic run scanner and tests, not a thing showing. When the DPFE sensor was changed on first startup it threw a 1401 code. But never did it again. No air leaks on egr valve gasket, checked all wiring connections, checked everything but vacuum reserve tank.
WE HAVE NO CLUE WHATS WRONG. runs GREAT at Idle. with and without EGR connected. Need help. Thanks
had the leak. then one point started the car and a loud pop from under the hood occurred resulting in a loud knocking noise coming from inside engine sounds like. like if there is a exhaust leak.
Tested battery -ok
. atenator -ok however seem like regulator not working but were is it. Inside alt? Do I have to replace whole alternator, rather should I?
And if,,, how about tention pulley or serpentine belt....27k miles 4yrsold
Is there a way to test the blend door actuater to verify that it's working properly
Grinds with clutch all the way in if the engine is spinning past 2100 fps
Just had oil changed yesterday at the dealer and they didn't mention any leaks. It started this morning when heating up my car. The smells goes away and comes back when idiling.
With the SRS system
First is was the passenger door latch that broke, then the driverside. I have bee patiently waiting to hear about a recall on these doors. We're using bungy cords to keep them closed. Safety issue. The part is over $100. The entire door has to come apart & cost more to fix it.
Passenger is not used very often. Is this a possible recall type issue?
Battery has full charge. With key in the on position all gauges work, radio works, windows work. When you turn the key to try and start it everything turns off and nothing happens. It does not even try to turn over. No clicking just silent. When you release the key and it goes back to the on position everything turns back on. The information panel on the dash states a fuel computer data error and a charging system data error. I do not know where to start looking. Any help would be appreciated.
System normal until placed in reverse, then "off" warning illuminates and stays on until ignition is turned off. I've seen elsewhere that I should listen for "ticking at the sensor, but won't they be de-energized if the switch indicates that the system is off?