It started last night, whenever I apply pressure to the gas pedal, the underside makes a chirp, the slower i go, the slower the chirp is. Is it a dry U joint? Or is it a tattle tale brake? When I am in park or neutral and rev the engine it does not chirp.

This problem has only hapoened once ive had no problem before this with it going into gear

I took my 2005 Escape Hybrid in for diagnostic and was told that the throttle body needs replacement base on the codes they found. They also said it would be $900+ and I'm somewhat skeptical of this being mechanically capable I'm digging around about it. This relates to the vehicle not having much power when stepping on the gas, and the engine revving when I do but going nowhere...also the gas mileage has dropped to 24 from 33 a few years ago.

the guy I bought from said it just stop running but pink showed transferred 2-14[not sure if bought it and could not get it running] p/u 5/14 now not running 4 months owner said had custom alarm removed he thought that was it still won't start,dealer said fuse box and water pump bad $1k also said trans bad??then asked how much I paid for it[bs] they just wanted start charging for things that are working, tow home checked both water pumps working,found 80 amp EPAS fuse blown replaced all others good,checked relays,before bringing to dealer replaced 12v battery,when you turn key to run all electrical works pw,pm,pld,lights,fan,radio and so on,HOW EVER some times the alarm light will blink slow then go out when the key is turned and sometimes blink fast[PATS?]removed battery ground many times when checking relays,all have is 1 key no remotes but believe it is a transponder key check fuse hybrid battery good push both reset buttons and jump start button waited 8 minutes still won't start when alarm light is off?? Can it be the PATS transponder or PCM power control module that is bad,don't know if the codes can be check if

While driving I can hear my pressure relief valve go off numerous times. I'm assuming this causes refrigerant loss which could be the cause of only cool air. I put gauges on the high side and it was pretty high. Could this be caused by a restricted orifice tube? If so, are the variable orifice tubes worth the expense? Also, should I change out the accumulator and what is the best quality brand? I hear Motocraft quality is currently lacking.

Should I replace all the rod bearings even if they feel tight? or should I use Plasigauge on each one to be sure?
What should the crankshaft diameter be where the rod bearings connect and what plasigauge reading is acceptible using standard bearings?

My reading using a calipar was around 1.935 to 1.955 inches. Does that fall within spec?

Oil was full clean not hot. Anti freeze full barely warm. been driving 55 for 1 hour in mountians. Restarted the escape did it 4 more times on the way to destination. Drove home next night 1.5 hours outside temp just above freezing no problems.Have not plugged in the OBD tester yet.

and the same two coils show bad on computer so changed again
and still says 2 are bad same ones do you have any ideas

locate the air conditioning low pressure valve.

Can I reset the light? Would not start or jump start. Called AAA and they found bad cell in engine battery and replaced it. Still won't start. Took to dealer and they replaced hybird battery air conditioner, $560. Still won't start. They claim it is hybrid battery. Should I believe them? I didn't understand how an air conditioned would affect a starting problem.