158
questions

I'm reading a lot of complaints about this same issue. I'm thinking Ford needs to recall and fix this for us loyal Ford lovers. If not, since I know nothing short of replacing the entire door panel, I am going to remove mine as they fall off, sand the metal down smooth and paint them.

While driving thru a parking lot (about 10-15mph) I thought my foot slipped from the gas pedal but the pedal had actually fallen to the floorboard. I coasted at idle speed all the way home.

Ford dealer in Orlando wants to replace torque converter AND transmission since it has 150K miles on it. Can we just fix the converter or do I need to fix both? Or should I just tow it somewhere and trade it? Only owe 2K on the darn thing..typical!

howto chnge cheap way to fix

REMOVE & REPLACE ENGINE OIL PAN &/OR GASKET - $224.59

REMOVE & REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET - $434.27

I replaced the alternator & now the list is:
Replace hoses $340
Replace tie rods $310
Fix wheels seizing $50
And $1800 for oil leaks
Is this the beginning of many expensive repairs?

Now I get 17 highway but 4 city. Runs good but poor mileage. They did put a new transmisson in it the the gear ratio is the same as the old one. Any ideals

loud noise front end. Sound like i have a flat tier. Went to Discount tier and they told me my tiers where good. I was told could be something with front end.

The light comes frequently again shortly after clearing.
Is there a known common problem giving that OBD code?

Had checked again told me 2 check relay it was defective..Troubleshooting poo54 how 2check my relay switches?

the theft light flashes and the motor acts like it wants to stall.i take the O.D. off and the rpms go up and it runs better. i have been told that a loose battery cable will do this, but i have checked the cables and even put a new battery in. the only thing is, the engine light has never come on during this weird event

lights keeps flashing and the alarm goes off 5 or more per day

My air compressor clutch fan is completely locked up. Just wondering if i could bypass it for now to get my truck back to driving it

total break down july 2011, new pcm installed no problems since, check engine light came on Sat. so I took it to the dealership and the code was pcm again, they said there was no drivability issues, but the car didn't start today. It would turn over then immediatly turn off. After three tries it stayed on, but this seems like a drivability issue to me!

When you turn the vehicle on it start to make this knocking/rattling noise. It was only happening every now and then and when parked. But in the last few day it has gotten to where as soon as you turn the truck on it starts. Someone told me it was the compressor, but I'm not sure.