2002 Ford Escape Questions
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Car runs fine otherwise. Just started having the problem today when I accelerated to 4,000 rpm coming up the hill to my house.
Motor has dropped dramicaly and transmission went in gear fine until
Car still running but wouldn't allow me to shift gear back to drive..is this a major problem
I had 3 installed but the mechanic tells me there is a fourth needed
all the time
was driving home and after stopping for a red light, i pressed the gas and my engine rev'd up and my rpm's spike up. the vehicles in drive not neutral..... maybe my transmission is bad?
EGR valve has been replaced 4 times. The ck eng lite comes back on after a few hrs of driving. Why? 2 of the valves have had holes blown in the cast iron part, what would cause this?
that is when it setting still when you put it in gear it will not pull it loses all power I have also changed cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor, EGR values, EGR coil, fuel ingestion rail, fuel injectors, idling sensor, fuel relay sensor, fuel filter, air flow sensor, and throttle body and still I have the same problem can you PLEASE help
Has a 3.0 V6 motor have changed spark plugs and coil packs
PVC pipe need changing if hose swelled up
I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 3.0 Liter engine. The engine has just been replaced tranny rebuilt 1.5 years ago, AC rebuilt last year. Now when I am driving in town with the traffic lights the ac starts blowing warm air and engine sounds like it is about to die.(running very rough) I can push the pedal to the floor and it sputters and coughs a little and eventually is will run normal, and the AC goes back to blowing cold air. If I am on the freeway it runs like a charm as long as I keep the RPMs higher than 3500. but if I start slowing it blows warm air unless I get the RPMs back up. Does anyone know what is wrong with my car?
My car broke down a week ago... car lost all power, and battery wasn't charging... I limped it hope by charging it and driving for a few miles... ect... I replaced the alternator the next day. Seemed to be running ok... but the batter light was flashing every little bit. Out of necessity I still drove it, but it broke down just a few days ago with the same symptoms. But with a quick jump it starts right back up. Bought a new battery and the light is still flashing. I am at a complete loss with this. The only other thought that I have is connections being corroded. If anyone can give me some insight I would greatly appreciate it.
truck is driving in FRONT wheel mode, no action to the rear wheels. this IS a 4 wheel drive w/a dash switch. stores say they don't carry or even know if this vehicle has a actuator/module? is their a fuse? or am I looking at a tranny replace?
How would I be able to figure out what is causing it to Misfire while doing 50mph? She also has a high beam out that I cannot get to work I've changed bulbs, fuses and ohms metered from fuse to connector. Is there anything in over looking?