2001 Ford Escape QuestionsRefine by vehicle
It shuts off when I push the clutch in and letting off the throttle. Starts right back up when I go to start it. It may not do it again for a few times or it may do it consistently. Do not lose any electronics or anything.
wont start no power inside of car nothing the whole car is dead if someone knows anything please let me know
My exhaust was leaking suddenly it got louder and the car started runnig badly with a very strong sulfer smell.
I noticed some recalls date back to 2007 which was prior to me owning the car. Some issues described could be the problems I am currently having. How long do I have to go back and have work done from a recall notice?
Sometimes my Escape (252,000 mi.) will not Idle when the weather is warm/hot. It will start and die unless I keep my foot on the accelerator. I drove it 25 miles home from work, 80 degree day, stopped by grocery store for a few minutes. It started fine, but when I drove 2 miles to the gas station and fueled up it would not stay idling, unless I put my foot on the gas. Any ideas? Thank you.
The mechanic is saying burnt valve but fixing the head and I don't get it
I had just drained the lubricant from the rear differential, and replaced it and added some slip lock. That did nothing for the issue. Could it be from the Power Take Off unit? Or possibly could it be stuck in 4WD from error of automatic 4WD engage?
I have been having problems with my ford escape for amost two years now and Im ready to throw in the towel.. It started In the winter when id start the truck it wouldn't run on its own until it got to a certain temp you would have to sit in the freezing cold and hold the gas. In the spring I had trouble with it running period so I had to change the coils. all six. the plugs. the coolant temp sensor. the O2 sensors. 4 if I remember correctly. also the egr valve. which is a 3part system. and that still didn't fix the problem. I was told to change the coils again. so I did. still not fixed it starts better and will idle. but it has a miss. and the miss isn't always there it will come and go. In the past few months it has started a strong hesitation at different times while driving. I figured out that it ran better if I had shut off the overdrive til I got to a certain speed and then hit the button and let it shift into overdrive. after the vehicle had ran for approx 30 min it would run fine like new at times. Recently in the past month it has been using more oil. a qt a wk. and im smelling it burn. so yesterday I changed the valve cover gaskets intake gaskets and plugs. there was no oil leaking under the truck and a small amount burning on top of the motor once I got to where I could see. I expected to find oil on a spark plug explaining the running problems and oil burning smell. all the coils look fine except the front middle. there was nothing on the plug but the outside of the coil boot looked to have had oil on it and burned off. having no choice I put it all back together because I have to drive this vehicle. obviously the valve cover gasket and intake gasket were not my problem. There was no oil in any of the spark plug holes. although the plugs were shot from how its been running im sure. So I called the part store and the coils I bought had a lifetime warranty. so once again I get to tear my motor apart and change the coil/s MY QUESTION IS.. Does anyone know WHAT the real problem is. IF it is the coil. WHY do the coils keep going bad? Hopefully someone who knows can help me? please and thank you!
How much should it cost to fix and how long. I had a mechanic tell me he wouldn't know how long or how much until he pulled off my steering wheel. I've been told it's a pretty common fix. Why would he try to bamboozle me.
Now my car is having trouble picking up speed and when I step on the gas pedal it makes a loud screeching noise even when I just start the car it still makes rough idle and whistling and screeching noise and won't go higher than 20mph. I tried to drive, but I started to smell gas so I parked it. Please help
I took my car to a transmission shop and had a diagnostics ran and they say the transmission is shot. How can I be sure that it is not a computer problem? Another transmission is going to be anywhere from $1400 to $2900 I am told. Is this reasonable? I am really screwed here since this is me and my daughter only vehicle and I have no family to help. I just dont know what to do.....please any advise would be appreciate.
The battery light would come on. When starting on the starter knocks.It would not start? Until I recharge the battery again it would start.
Shop says 2500$ valve job? Is there any thing else it could be?
I have replaced the O rings between the upper manifold before and when I took it apart the last tine there was fuel outside the area where the O rings were on # 2 and #5 cylinders.
I have a constant low vacuum at the EGR valve less than 5 Hg at idle, which it seems is enough to move the diaphragm in the ERG valve. I replaced the EGR solenoid, and I have voltage at the solenoid plug. However if I disconnect the Solenoid plug I still have vacuum at the EGR. I removed the EGR vacuum hose and plugged it, put a vacuum Gage in the system at the intake manifold I get about 17Hg. Reconnect the EGR vacuum line and it drops to about 15Hg. I am stumped