2001 Dodge Dakota QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My automatic(motion) door lock on my driver side quit working years ago. Recently, the passenger side clicks for no reason, intermittently, even when just sitting in the garage. I just wish to unhook it so that it doesn't run my battery down this winter...
Appreciate a suggested solution...
and radio works when key is on acc
I have oil leaking out of the wire loom near the back of the air cleaner box (not coming from the Draino the box). It generally follows the ground wire and runs down the fender. I can clean the whole area and drive for 15 or 2 minutes with no leak. After it sits over nigh there is a small stream of oil starting to run do. I don't think there are any oil lines in the loom. Is there oil in the control box mounted in the fender right there that could be traveling through one of the connectors and out?
Haven't replaced radiator.but its clean.
If I turn the ignition on and listen for the fuel pump noise and do this three times without cranking and finally then crank the engine and it starts up right away does this mean a bad fuel pump?
This also occurs when I am driving. For example, I'll be at a stop light and my foot is on the brake and the rpms shoot up to 1000 plus. My truck almost moved. If anyone can help me, that'd be great!
Won't come out if park.
Truck has been sitting for a year due to brakes sticking on and overheating. Had everthing replaced from master cylinder down. Problem comes back after 2k miles or so. Quicker if I do much stop and go driving.
Have also replaced pads 7 times, rotors 4 times.
Just ordered a Powersport perfarmce drilled and slotted rotors with semi-metallic/Ceramic pads. Hope that helps.
The sticking in park is a new issue.
Brakes have been a nightmare since I bought it..
bought my 2001 Dodge Dakota in 2001 with 7k miles on it and was pleased with it until the brakes started to get hot under normal use, and it continued to get worse.Sometimes it was fine for a few weeks but it kept coming back. So I took it to the dealer, they checked it and test drove it and as usual it didn't act up that day. The prob continued and took it back a second time, no action was taken. This was around 12k miles I divided to replaced the pads and it was fine for 1k miles then the same. So I again replaced the pads and rotors my self with a better brand. All was well for about 5k miles. And problem cane back, worse than before. My new pads and rotors were burnt.
I took it back to the dealer but this time I drove it around until they stuck and pulled in to the dealer. Told them to drive it now and verify the problem. Of course they waited to long and they cooled, fortunately I took a time/date stamped pic of them smoking hot when I first pulled in, I was smoking hot by then too.
They reluctantly replaced everything from the booster master cyl, lines pads and rotors. Worked great for 4-5k miles and the problem is back and of course the warranty ran out, so never did get it fixed.
I think it may be related to the ABS controller, cause when they start sticking it pulsates making the front bounce when I brake. Once they get very hot truck bounceseven when I'm not breaking.
I've only got 70k miles on this truck, and rarely drive it because of the prob.I have put 6 sets of pads and 3 sets of rotors on it. Thought about buying an expensive brand name brake kit on it, but if its the ABS controller it would likely do the same. Like to keep the truck but its just not reliable enough to trust more than a few miles from home. I won't knowingly sell it to anyone know it has this problem. Maybe I should trade it back in where I bought it just to get even with them.
<b>Anyone heard of anything like this?
I welcome any opinions.</b>
fuel pumps sounds like its working good, battery is new, and no codes appearing
Truck is cranking not starting. Tried replacing fuel pump, checked sensors, fuel lines good. Can't figure out what would cause fuel relay ground to not have voltage??
2001 Dakota, 4.7L 4x4. I am experiencing an engine cough at 2000 sustained rpm when on the highway. The engine coughs briefly and there is a slight, momentary jump in rpm (maybe 50 rpm max.). Coincidentally, I am experiencing a noisy rear differential that start rather suddenly a month ago.
They quoted me a price of $862.00 to replace the water pump, a few o-rings that go with it and the hoses. I'm aware that the parts cost only around $200.00 max. How exactly does someone figure an almost $700.00 + for labor? Can someone please help justify this for me? Or are they fucking insane?