15,175
questions

Symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.

Driver side tire starting to shudder .
I don't know if it's a ball joint something else.

Any 1 here has dealt w/ this b4

All the segments light up on the gearshift indicator and transmission will not shift until gearshift is put back in park and then back to drive.

change plugs, wires , air filter , change injector , clean coborator . code p0303 still shows .

I replaced a belt 2 weeks ago. today it broke again. I can replace it but I want to know why its breaking.

The windows on the pass side don't work. The power outlets dont work, I had the fuses checked out and they look good. I was told it's probably an electrical box. Where is it? What is it called?? Is it expensive to get? Thank you so much!!

My friend had a garage put an alternator on and they replaced the belt too, altough they did not replace the idler or tensionor. A week to the day the belt flew off and some how broke the earlets for the a.c.. Can I just downsize the belt and have it safe? I've been trying to fix it for 5 days and even jbweld didn't stick. So I can't mount the bypass pully. Need more thoughts!!!!! Please help!!

I have 120000 miles on my diesel truck and had to replace the water pump this year. Then 6 months later it went out again. Now after only 2 months its going out again.why? I used a part from oReilys and I am getting suck of going through this. What could it be?

Ac working fine heater working fine vbelt very loose ultimately coming off

V belt made noises when fan was turned on had no problems with cooling 2 to 3 weeks since then belt has come off was told need compressor without inspection

How can ibfind th problem without throwimg a bunch of parts on?

I have replaced the battery and the terminal ends, idle air control valve, tested the TPS (tested good), fuel pump, ignition coil, and cleaned the TB. Scanner is popping the code P0315 (Primary/Secondary Ignition Malfunction). Any idea on how to proceed?

When u start the van it runs smooth but within few min of warming up it it it started surging lacks power under loud have changed map sensor,spark plugs rotor and fuel filter and PVC and it still is running bad what is causing this

when it turns over the speed ometer bounces . I pulled the instrument cluster and pluged in different bulb , it would flash on then off but wouldnot stay on with key on. tried obd and it would not flash. pluged in obd under dash and it failed to connect.

ok I'm a 26 year auto technician but got a head scratcher here. Got this truck from an auction and upon inspecting why the driver rear window wouldn't roll down (its a quad cab) realized someone had gutted the door, took window motor and regulator assy. got all new componenets and installed them and all windows work except the drivers rear, if you use the rear door switch it will roll the window down but will not roll up and I get no action at all from the NEW master switch. All the little green lamps in the top of the switches are lit and using a power probe, I'm able to watch the voltages swap from one pin to the other at the window motor but it seems like its not applying a ground to complete the circuit when you attempt tp roll the window back up. I cannot find any broken wires and even checked the TIPM for a bad connection and none were found. the problem I'm running into is finding a good diagram, I have all data but the diagram is pretty vague. any help would be greatly appreciated.

The vehicle check engine light is on. The vehicle frequently hesitates when you push on the gas. I want to know how do you check a governor solenoid, governor pressure sensor or the Throttle Position Sensor?

No-one can diagnose my car properly help please

dodge nitro 2011 2wd 4.0 ,where is the thermostat location

My automatic(motion) door lock on my driver side quit working years ago. Recently, the passenger side clicks for no reason, intermittently, even when just sitting in the garage. I just wish to unhook it so that it doesn't run my battery down this winter...

Appreciate a suggested solution...

Regards,

Schmierzy

replaced fuel lift pump and started without either 20 times or so but each start cranking took longer. Now back to using either. replaced fuel rail pressure sensor did not help

replaced fuel lift pump and started fine for twenty time but cranking longer progressed till no start. back to either

6.7lt EGR permanent defect. Chrysler never acknowledged the problem

Its a friends car she drove it to her moms after that it just Wong turn over never had problems but it was a quart of oil over i drained 1 quart

I packed the truck this morning with no problems. When I went back to start it it can not start.

Camshaft and Crank Misalignment. Possible Oil Control Soleniod Malfunction, may have missing oil screen.

Have the car towed, but when it gets to the shop starts up fine. Battery checks out fine. Changed starter 3 times in 1 -1/2 years. No problem for a few months then happens again the same exact way. Weather does not effect it.

i've changed cranck position sencor and still runs find tell warms up. the check engine light comes on and goes off took it to get codes read they said it was o2 sencor. put on two different coils. new cap roter plugs roter. thanks for your help in this matter.

I've been reading other post w/ similar problems Nd ever1 points to PCM box.

has any1 bought a refurbished pcm Nd wat luck have they?

hi i change crank sensor,pick-up coil ,test the ignition coil to other car its working,my suv is 5.9 slt durango 2003

on a 178 mile trip used like gallon of oil .my trans isnt shifting to o d either

As I'm driving and come to a stop sign or red light and hit the breaks it idles up and down then it cuts off. It cranks right back up with a little hit of the gas but continue to do the same thing. Also when I crank up and bout 3 to 5 minutes in park it starts idling out of control if I don't hit the gas it's go shut off help please.