Dodge Dakota QuestionsRefine by vehicle
turn signals work, head lights work , hazards work , checked fuses and all bulbs and changed head light switch
When I step down on the accelerator it does nothing until about 3/4 of the throttle is down and then it kicks into a lower gear and takes off.
On freeway when truck died, lights on dash read check gauges and showed fuel tank but plenty of fuel. Started and died a few minutes later. Checked fuses and relays & all good. Towed home then started truck and drove around block and idled fine. Next AM no start again but now Check engine light on, fuel tank showing and reading says No bu5 What does this mean and how can I test it?
My son thinks he might have put to much oilin his truck. He lost oil pressure. When he restarted the truck. The oil pressure came back and then wentvaway again and the engine started knocking.
Can anyone post a pic of where the oil pressure sensor is on a 2004 Dodge Dakota? 4.7 engine
2005 Dakota shifting into 4 wheel drive by itself even when it is just sitting in the driveway off. Tired of it. Scary to drive on the highway. Tries to shift into 4Lo. It has the 4.7, not all wheel drive.
I am not mechanical inclined
4.7L, 2wd, crew cab, 121k miles.
I can not predict when problem will occur, but often under slight load. If I shift to neutral and rev, prob goes away.
Turned key off/on 3 x .
Odometer said P done?
180,000+ miles. Code "no bus" came up with engine light on dash when it would not restart, then next day I turned key in ignition and without turning it over 3x(on/off)and odometer said "p done". What do these mean?
180k miles. Also, "no bus" on the odometer.
Did the key trick 3x in 5 seconds to see any codes.it reads "P done"?
My 4 high won't work but my 4 low will, now when I go back to 2wd my 4wd service light is still on with the truck not being on 4wd anymore? Thanks for your help
I removed the front driver said break line for better access at the bottom sliding pin and bushing on the caliper once pin was replaced I reconnected line without bleeding them once everything was reassembled and I removed the Jack I remembered so begin lazy I attempted to bleed the line I had removed without jacking it up or removing wheel. The pedal would not stop going all the way to the floor so I bleed the front passenger side same thing no pressure ABS light still on how do I fix this how do I make ABS light go off HELP PLEASE
When first started loss of power for about 4min.
My automatic(motion) door lock on my driver side quit working years ago. Recently, the passenger side clicks for no reason, intermittently, even when just sitting in the garage. I just wish to unhook it so that it doesn't run my battery down this winter...
Appreciate a suggested solution...
The truck stops fine but the emergency brake will not hold the truck from rolling on a hill even a small one
about once every month I have to put in some more break fluid and every once in a while I see a puddle under my car but not always. any sugjestions
I checked all electrical connections for voltage all is good. switch on dash board checks out good. compressor turns free with wrench. can not jump the relay to jump the compressor. can I put temp wedges in and force it to turn so I can charge it?
What are the steps to replacing the headlight, mine has gone out.
When I turn to the right while driving, a loud noise comes from the wheel well. I've been told it's the hub assembly.
Truck blows hot air when moving but only warm air at idle.
The heater in my 1991 Dakota only works after driving many miles. The heater continues to blow cold air even after the engine temperature has risen past C.
There is an intermittent clank underneath the vehicle that is not associated with specific driving motions or when going over a bump. It does not seem to be caused by shifting, acceleration or braking. It goes away for long periods of time and then starts again.
I have one vacuum hose ending at a small part behind the battery. The other end I can't find where it hooks to. Any ideas???
I bought my Dakota a year ago and it ran great for about 6 months. Check engine light came on throwing a generic tranny code P0700 as well as P0420 & P0320. Replaced the crank sensor and the speed sensor. Light stayed on but ran great for a couple weeks. There same codes again. Changed them out again a couple days ago and the light went off and ran spectacular for about 20 miles. Light came back on and ran horrible again(revved up and wouldn't downshift at a stop) same codes came back. Could it possibly be a ground wire shorting out because even with these codes and light staying on it seems to have a mind of its own, running good then not, back and forth?
I just purchased an OBD device and I don't know where to lug it in
I can turn key on then it will start if I touch two prongs on starter what could b the problem it it started right up the first time hour later Tryed to start nothing . When turning key it won't mske a sound click at all and it's not batt is charged. Any no the prob
tranny been rebuilt about a year ago ,now it not shifting when going down the road
changed fuel pump still no start condition.
but then will die if driven again changed crank position sensor, starter , battery ,fuel pump, idle position sensor,and pick up sensor any ideas