23
questions

Speedometer-erratic & wrong, no odometer, headlites & cluster-interior lites all flicker.

checked: fuse-ok
resistor-looks ok-has varied resistance
switch-ok-checked continuity
blower motor-ok-bench tested with battery
no power to fuse key on or off-all other fuses have pow
er

Removed switch, checked out ok, removed blower motor and it also checked out,found no electricity at the conn. to motor.

BETWEEN 50 AND 60 AS SOON AS I LET OFF THE GAS THE OVER-DRIVE KICKS OUT.

air/heater blower and electric window fuses are dead. wire from ignition switch to fuses is dead.

What is in the distributer than controls how much air/fuel mixture to send to injectors. It seems to be sending too much fuel, after truck is warmed up.

Truck misses very badly 10 mins after starting, wont start again very easily, until cold again, then will run perfect for 10 mins until engine warms up, changed cap, rotor,plugs, coil is good, any suggestions read about a coolant temperature sensor, ?

will not turn off with the switch or the brake peddle. what part or parts do I need.

Switch only latches bright lights on

vehicle is a 1991 dodge d250 2wd cummins diesel.

a 1991 D 250 2 wheel drive with a cummins engine to convert the 2 wheel to a 4 wheel drive.

The idle is too slow need to set it up some.

i have a broken hose that comes from a bundle leading too the top of my air pump. i cannot find other end of hose or a place where it should have hooked up too.. its a small hose leading too the firewall, connected too a plastic nipple from a bundle of wires and hoses that lead too the top of the air pump. i have had a check engine light ever since hose broke, and i am running rich. does anyone know where this hose leads too? thanks..