2007 Chrysler Pacifica Questions
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every time I try to start my car I need to spray starter fluid in the throttlebody so it will start and run
my gas cap light comes on and was replaced with several ones and my gas gage is all off now too and my check engine is always on too.
My car only starts when I use starter fluid then runs fine
When I put gas in it takes a long time because the gas pump keeps stopping because my gas tank over flows and I only put like $10 when I know it's almost empty but soon as I put gas in it says its full
car talled while driving and now does nothing but turn over wont start fuel pump has been replaced but still just cranks no fire
It is intermittent.
I have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Limited. 4.0L FWD. It has 134,000 miles. I am the 2nd owner. 1st owner took immaculate, meticulous care of the car. Here is my problem.
It runs great from point A to point B on a cold start. However, from point B to point C on a warm start it idles rough, engine loops, check engine light comes on. If I am cruising around flat terrain not much power demand on the engine it will do fine. But if I have to down shift for more power the steering wheel starts bucking, pulsing. The whole car feels like it is pulsing.
I drive it to work in the morning around 5am. Distance of 5 miles. It sits all day, then I drive it home around 3:30pm.
It started doing this problem about 2 weeks ago. I had the code pulled and said it was a #5 chamber misfire. I bought new plugs, and proceeded to change. Upon which time I found that my intake manifold was not connect to the filter hose so it had been sucking in unfiltered road air for a while. I replaced the plugs, but found it did not fix the issue. I read somewhere that I may need to use some "gumout" solution to clean the chambers, injectors exc. I have added that solution to my gas tank and am currently working it through.
Here is my questions.
What in the system can I clean? what should I have a dealer clean? what would work when cold but stop working correctly when warm? What else should I look at replacing my self or repair?
And after a short time, I can drive further. What is the problem?
Could the wheel sensor code this to happen?
converter and emissions evap detector. The cost to fix both 625.00. I was also told I needed link pins replaced and that I had several oil leaks around oil pan gasket and valve gasket the second set of problems would cost an additional 725.00 they said the converter in that cost is aftermarket. the codes for the converter and emission detector were in the ECU
Not sure if this is some sort of adapter or not. Has 3 hoses coming out of it.
theres fuel in the tank and checked relays and fuses will start up with fuel added to breather but soon dies
The car starts fine but I can't get it out of park into the drive gear or reverse gear.
front heat is not as hot as it should be, blower work's, heater hose going in is hot, heater hose coming out is warm
ABS, Brake and traction lights on continually. Took to Advance, put on their diagnostic, code C1073. What is that and is it still safe to drive? Brakes are working fine. Just had brake pads put on in last 3 months