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was told that the sensor on the fuel pumps went out and that i need to replace the fuel filters in my pacifica. i am trying to find a reasonable price to have this fixed.

What could be the issue?

i have fuel at the tank but on fuel at the injectors any ideas? I replaced the fuel pump also

I've been to two mechanics, looking for third opinion

car talled while driving and now does nothing but turn over wont start fuel pump has been replaced but still just cranks no fire

ovreheatingandlosingcoolanthappenedbeforeputstopleakinbuthappeningagainandthedriverssideflooisallwet.

I just bought it used about a year ago from.a car dealership and if when I thought my balljoint was getting bad I figured out that the engine cradle was almost rotted into on the passenger side and the driver side is also dangerous can I get any help with the cost for repair.

In my Pacifica the climate control loses all power and shuts down randomly then it will eventually come back on and work normally the control head display has nothing on it no temperature or anything I replaced the control head and I replaced the blower motor resistor still nothing I checked fuses and i didn't find a bad one what am I missing

Cylinoid module changed

my car will not crank due to starter not engageing. i have got new one and it still will not engage the starter. i have checked fuses and relays please help

It is intermittent.

Only Chrysler can fix it. Not the blower motor, not the resistor, local mechanic thinks it's the module built inside the dash display.

I have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Limited. 4.0L FWD. It has 134,000 miles. I am the 2nd owner. 1st owner took immaculate, meticulous care of the car. Here is my problem.
It runs great from point A to point B on a cold start. However, from point B to point C on a warm start it idles rough, engine loops, check engine light comes on. If I am cruising around flat terrain not much power demand on the engine it will do fine. But if I have to down shift for more power the steering wheel starts bucking, pulsing. The whole car feels like it is pulsing.
I drive it to work in the morning around 5am. Distance of 5 miles. It sits all day, then I drive it home around 3:30pm.
It started doing this problem about 2 weeks ago. I had the code pulled and said it was a #5 chamber misfire. I bought new plugs, and proceeded to change. Upon which time I found that my intake manifold was not connect to the filter hose so it had been sucking in unfiltered road air for a while. I replaced the plugs, but found it did not fix the issue. I read somewhere that I may need to use some "gumout" solution to clean the chambers, injectors exc. I have added that solution to my gas tank and am currently working it through.

Here is my questions.
What in the system can I clean? what should I have a dealer clean? what would work when cold but stop working correctly when warm? What else should I look at replacing my self or repair?

Replacing old heater core with new one

Self fixing (installing heater core

2005 pacifica 2wd 3.5 engine. driving at highway speed car quit running. would not restart. checked codes with scanner , no codes. spins over fine. checked all fuses, check ground, checked fuel system. any ideas on which way to go from here?

It's don't want to take key

My wife was driving her pacifica the other night and it just died. Got the p0340 code and replaced cam and crank position sensors and a new battery. I have tried to spray starter fluid in the intake and got nothing. It is still showing the p0340 code. Any help would be appreciated. I forgot to mention the motor will crank but won't fire.

And after a short time, I can drive further. What is the problem?

Could the wheel sensor code this to happen?

Hit a curb and will not turn back on

lost all power can will not start . it makes the clicking sound but wont start

When my 2006 Chrysler Pacifica comes to a stop light, it begins to idle extremely hard and begins shaking. Sometimes violently as if it's going to simply explode. Then as I begin to accelerate, it just won't; then surges forward hard like I slammed on the gas but then bogs back down. I have to pull over, turn the car off and back on, and then it's ok until I come to another stop. I am not very car savvy to begin with, but I have changed EGR valve, added extra grounds, changed upstream and downstream O2 sensors, and now I'm getting a code for ignition module (it just started not turning over recently as well.) I love this car as I have 3 kids, but Ive dumped way too much money into it. I'm sick of getting nickel and dimed every time I fix an issue. Idk what else to do. Even my mechanic friends are at a loss. If anyone has any insight, I am open to any and all ideas.

converter and emissions evap detector. The cost to fix both 625.00. I was also told I needed link pins replaced and that I had several oil leaks around oil pan gasket and valve gasket the second set of problems would cost an additional 725.00 they said the converter in that cost is aftermarket. the codes for the converter and emission detector were in the ECU

The skylight has started leaking, is there anything I can do to protect the interior of the car until I can get it checked on?

The other 2 breaks have no juice when u break loosen the bleeder scree

Gas runs from the tank to the main convention on the metal pipe where the injectors r hook to but will not run threw the throttled boxy to crank all it does is just turn over & over but not crank because of not getting gas ,CAN YALL PLEASE HELP ME, THANKS

We have a Chrysler Pacifica Touring package, no sunroof. The water soaks carpet on drivers side only. The drivers carpet and carpet at feet of passenger directly behind driver.

Not sure if this is some sort of adapter or not. Has 3 hoses coming out of it.

Stops at acc only, won't go to lock position.