30
questions

A jerk bought our vehicle and tore up the steering column, and other stupid things ! We replaced the steering column, and the car won't start ! We found a red wire that had been jerked out what does it go to in the vehicle ! Please Help me !

I have already tried replacing the motor and that is not the problem. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Also, when the driver window stops working, the passenger stops working as well. HELP! My windows are down and I need them up

to help me proceed against Auto Tech and Body in Pompano or can you refer me to any attorney who does auto law after the gross negligence, incompetence or deliberate actions to secure return business cost the original engine of my 1996 Chevy Camaro RS, a car that I have owned since she was 16 miles old, caused me a serious medical emergency and cost me $6000?
I am Camaro 96 and if you check my last post, I am inquiring about the same incident, only I tried to be fair in letting them "correct" their first engine pull which cost $4300, and was rife with leaks, as well as exhaust being pumped into the car cabin. I am now more afraid of the car I received the second time which cost me an additional $1700 plus tax. It is parked because it cannot be depended on to make the 12 miles from home to work and I am now living with and sharing my 82 year old father's car because after driving my car and coming home with major migraine type headaches for days from the increasing noxious fumes that I had been jokingly refering to as the dead dog they wiped my car with after my first accusations of gross negligence or incompetence, I was rushed for emergency services after I woke on the third morning with THE LEFT SIDE OF MY FACE COMPLETELY PARALYZED. Two days later, when I took the overheating and poorly accelerating car in somewhere else to be checked, I have pictures, mechanics testimony and receipts that will show there was ZERO ANTIFREEZE and only completely rusted water in the radiator flush. For the second time after Auto Tech and Body worked on my car I was advised to not drive the car until the engine can be pulled again to determine if the water was rusted when it was put in or if the engine block that was put in was completely rusted out because they told me they did not check or open it before they put it in. The warranty they gave me excludes overreving (I can Fred Flintstone it away from a light faster than it can accelerate while it revs extremely high), abuse (the fan bracket which secures the lower coolant hose had been snapped, epoxyed and the hose was hanging below the guard (I have pictures of this and how a mechanic had to secure it until the fan cover can be ordered and replaced), loss of oil (I can write my name on the oil pan's now leak) and overheating (which is how I found the zero antifreeze and rusty water in my radiator and 2008 replacement engine). A recipe for voiding their warranty. BTW, when I took my car back the second time to find that I would need to replace my original engine block, which they stated they had not opened, but John, the service manager knew that was what I expected for $4300 because who would have someone send out the head without at least checking and tending to the block and I had offered to buy the kit bec my other mechanics, who could not pull the engine allowed me to buy parts and just pay to have them installed. He assured me my engine would be like brand new!!! When I explained this to the owner's husband, who told me he was advised to put my car on the street by the big Corporation who owned this operation as they were not some small time "schlock" garage but he convinced them to try to fix it again and I would only have to pay for half of the replacement engine. State records show the Big Corporation is a woman in his home. He stated that the work order was done over the phone and I did not use the word "rebuild" so instead they had pulled the engine, sent out the head for $502, put in $900 in other parts (gaskets,hoses, sensors) and charged me for replacing these pieces separately into the car to tune of over $2700. Who installs the heart of a 90 year old man into the body of a person who has had all new organs transplanted? And why didn't the new oil sensor warn me that the engine block had no oil? They told me that because I could not afford to have th exhaust system replaced the car would continue to blow smoke. The noxious fumes I spoke of the first time I got the car back was that they had pulled the heating hose from the dashboard and to "save me hundreds" they did not replace that hose but instead redirected it back into the engine. Unfortunately, they left that hole open which forced any exhaust in the engine area right into the cabin of the car. Problem; they left part of the exhaust system uncoupled in the engine area that they charged me for an exhaust mounting kit. I had recently had the exhaust sealed and have a receipt for $170 and the engine was almost silent when I brought it in. When I came to pick up the car the first time, it was backed up to a fence and running quietly but as I pulled out of Auto Tech and Body, I stopped the car a block away to have my father stick his head into the car to have him hear how loud it was. The manager, John, told me that the owner's husband, the "General Manager", had driven my car home to his house the night before and no less than 3 people had asked to purchase it. When I asked the owner's husband about that statement, he seemed surprised that John had said that but recovered and proceeded to gush over my car and how everyone loved it. As I pulled off the lot, I wondered why if he had driven it at all, that he would have let me drive away with it. The car was so loud in the cabin I had to drive the car with the window open. I was not sure if the headaches I was getting were because of the noise or the smell of exhaust. I had to drive with the window open in the heat of the Florida summer on the highway to lower the sound in my car which was so horrible that I became the Queen of coasting. When I stepped on the gas the car would scream down the road!!! A woman I frequently drove home from work and I had to make each trip in silence or yell at ach other. Driving with the window open helped mask the exhaust fumes and probably saved my life as I even had to drive with the window open in the rain with a towel on my shoulder. I am taking my car to a mechanic who can pull my engine tommorrow and giving him a camera to document all my new leaks and other problems. But I am still paying off $6000 in maxed out credit card debt to Auto Tech and Body so any advice would be appreciated.

I have pulled both front wheels off, no damage noted, but the sway bar looks like it is cracked.

pulled p0171,0174,0300,1406, map high voltage, security enable, smoke tested leaking at lower intake replaced all intake & plenum gaskets map sensor & egr, repeat p1406 did check to new egr all voltages good, mode6 tells me fail on accel & decal did notice upon egr check egr control from computer cuts out voltage from actuators fuse from 12v to about 9v is this supposed to ground completely or gradualy upon acceleration?

had engine pulled 10 months ago for $4300 cleaning and sealing all leaks and now being told crankshaft has gone and to pay $2500 to replace block on just pulled and cleaned engine because they could not forsee crankshaft. They also said thy need to redo heads.

Odometer does not work the sensors work about ten minutes then fail

My 96 z28 from my mechanic said that the engine is mis-firing at idle but when driving or accelerating, the misfire goes away. this is what his computer tells him. he said he doesnt exactly know what is causing it but was offering to fix it for me to the tune of $500 starting off and going up the longer it took ti find the issue and fix it. i have looked up all of the parts to replace on engine for ignition and willing to spend the money to purchase all of it but would like to find out what i should start with.

the light has been on for about 2 weeks now.

p 1870 code came up trany well stick between 2 and 3 when getting on it otherwise runs good

Brake warning light is on. How do I take apart the parking brake lever and reattach or check hydraulic fluid of the braking system? It is only the brake light, not the ABS INOP light, yet.