Volkswagen Tiguan Questions

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1000 code is showing for my radio what is the code please help
At first the engine coolant light was then the malfunction indicator light came on we brought it to a mechanic had all the fluids checked when we picked it up the engine coolant light was off but the malfunction light was still on
tiguan 2011 135000km le service volkswagen me dise qu'il est préférable de changer les deux avec les deux tetes
I like to know 100% if the Tiguan 2017 needs Premium Gas .
I spent hours trying to turn off the ignition switch. Had to jiggle the key for it to finally turn off. Already replaced the ignition switch but still the same problem.
I have a 2011/12 tiguan 4 motion DSG 7 speed. I devolped a grinding noise in the rear left wheel I assumed it was a wheel bearing but upon investigation I diagnosed the fault with the rear diff. When the car is on a lift and the car is started and put it in drive you distinctly hear the noise from the diff assembly and alumium dust comes from the left side where the drive shaft is connected. also you can phisically feel movement when i shake it. It is obvious that the bearing has collapsed. Rather than just replace the bearing as I am concerned there is internal damage I will bite the bullet and replace the rear drive unit with either a recon or new one or low mileage 2nd hand one.(some advice as to where in Europe I could purchase one cheaper than the £2000+ VW want). My biggest concern is that the haldex unit comes with a new assembly does this have to be coded to the car or alternatively I could fit my Haldex to the new assembly
So I have already replaced the spark plugs with NGK's Part # PFR7S8EG.
After driving the car about a week later the check engine light came back on and the same code is back on.
Mind you the vehicle runs pretty smooth.
When I lock my door with my finger on the door handle it locks, when I push it again it is supposed to activate the alarm. it does not do that anymore. How do I fix this?
How long have you had this problem? 1 week
Since Aug. 2013 I have had three new batteries in my vehicle. The dealer keeps saying it is the two way remote system that was installed in my vehicle that could be causing the problem. This vehicle was purchased from a VW dealer and was pre owned.
The day I went to test drive it the sales person could not get the VW remote to open the door, they had to manually open the door and the vehicle would not start, they had to give it a boost, then it started right away. Then we went for a test drive, came back and said "I will think about it". Next day I returned and wanted to test drive it again, again it would not start, it had to be boosted. After an other test drive, I said "I liked the vehicle, but was concerned about it not starting", I was told that they would put in a brand new battery, so I bought the vehicle. The first battery lasted about 16 months, the second battery (AGM battery) lasted about 25 months and the third battery is still working at the moment. These batteries die in the Winter time when it's cold. I think something must be draining the battery, even these days it's warm and the interior lights do no always come on when I turn off the ignition or take out the key, they do come on when I open the door. In the Winter time I do not have time to get my key in to the ignition before the interior lights turn off. Checking on the internet I found one person saying that the EVL MODULE DREW DOWN THE BATTERY AND THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. IT WAS FIXED WITH A SOFTWARE UPDATE. I have mentioned this to my dealer, and they say they don't know what the EVL module is, there suggestion was to put a solar panel on the dash and plug it in to the lighter socket in the Winter, and they would re wire the socket so that it would be live when the vehicle is off. Not the best solution, I hope you are able to come up with a better solution for my dilemma!
Bye for now,

Derek Munro
What seems to make the problem better or worse? It's worse in the Winter time
How long have you had this problem? Since 2013
I have been hearing a chirping sound coming from the back axle, it happens at various speeds, but mostly on highways when I do above 100 Km/h. I thought it was the brakes, so I took the car to the local VW dealer, they told me the brakes were fine, that I had still 50% of my brake capacity left. They said that sound could be the rotor. Usually the cabin is very quiet, but this chirping noise makes the radio hard to listen to. I'm looking for a second opinion on this matter. Thx
Car had an accident. It's parked in my garage facing inwards.Battrey is dead , and the transmission ( gear ) does not shift ( movie ).I need to tow it to the dealer. What to do?
Tried to start Ecm and chk engine came on took to dealer was told a new head was needed due to timing skipping and bend valve... Found used head took to machine shop had it put in cranks bit no fire?
Mechanical doing routine maintenance suggested I get new brakes

change battery now car wont start and parking brake malfunction light came on
water pump replaced at 65000m & leaking again 73000m. dealer says engine head oil leak caused second failure; should I fix the car and sell it - don't want to replace pump every year
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