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Mitsubishi Eclipse Questions

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I have replaced all spark plugs,wires,coil pacs,fuel injectors,cam sensor, crank sensor and still have a p300 code,plus a cam sensor fault code no one can figure out was wrong with it it's been doing it for months and had it to 2 shops already and I can't drive it because don't want to hurt other parts in engine and make more problems I have spent $650 on it already no leaks no noises motor runs strong until it kicks the first time then the service engine light comes on again don't understand what is wrong with it could it be the catalytic converter or something else that has to do with fuel or air mixture because of the p300 code not sure why the cam sensor fault code is on also the sensor is brand new really getting frustrated with this car because paying for it and can't drive it really sucks but I like the car just want it to run like it should so I can drive it
I have cold air coming out on the driver side in the Winter.Summer I use the AC water on the driver floor board. I bought the car like this.I have flush and burp.It was running hot and smoking.Got that fixed.Please help.I was told I need a heater core.But im getting heat on the passenger side.
The check engine light came on for the first time since she had it could that be from a bad throwout baring putting a strain on the engine??
Tapping noise coming from valve area. I can hear it during idle and it gets faster as I accelerate. Is this a bad lifter? Is this common on high mileage cars? (85K). How can I fix this?
removed cables and charged batter with external battery charger; after charge, reatached cables, started car, walked around and noticed til lights on even without light switch turned on. have not checked if brake pedel is sticking or if fuse problem.
I just bought a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse gs 2.4L and this is my first car and it ran great when I first bought it. Got it cheap though so I was wondering what could be really wrong and why such a good deal... About 2 weeks later after buying it and getting new brake disks, the car turns into poop. The guy doing my breaks plugs a code reading and says "it's pulling up that there's a miss fire". The thing is, I walked into the the place with the car running fine. I didn't have issues till he told me. So I walked out of there thinking he's making it up, there's no way I can have problems with a new car.. but I leave the corner and I step on the gas to the floor to get a good feel and that's when I feel the car stutter and basically feels like the gas is breaks. When I pushed it down the car slowed down and the RPM's was struggling to go up, sounded like it was getting louder but wasn't going anywhere. So I pulled off to the side of the ride and was pissed and called everyone I knew that might have an idea. My first thoughts was that this guy messed my car up because I walked in there with a great car and left with a bad one.. but after that, I made it home. And I let the car sit for a day and the car ran better. The car runs okay when slightly putting your foot on the gas and slowly going faster but if u wanted to put ur foot down on the gas it would stutter a lot and then after a while maybe 3-5 seconds it will start to fully burst into a sports car mode haha. But the stuttering sounds horrible and feels like breaks for a bit. I was starting to get use to this issues and was deciding "okay the car runs okay as long as I slowly go on the gas and not to the floor". But then soon after I start the realize how bad it started to idle and it started to stall on me. And now it has a bad start up. Usually it's 1 miss fail and then I turn the key again and the 2nd time it works fine. But i don't know if that has to do with this. I took the car to my friends and tried cleaning the MAF and it got stuck at my friends house and the car wouldn't start, and if it did if I put gas on the car it would stall, and it would idle hard and give out shortly after. I had to get it towed haha. Sounds like fun. But my dad restarted the computer on the car somehow and the car ran okay after that, but not back to its normal state. Just back to its "slow gas peddle" state. I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF censor and it runs a little better after that incident but still hesitates when going on the gas hard and idles bad when at stop lights. Sometimes stalls but I can feel it going bad so I put it in park and it sounds better, I just put it back in drive as soon as the light is green and im fine. I have yet to clean the IAC valve because it's hard to reach to. But I plan to get there to see if that helps. I also want to mention, the car has a bad fuel neck. When I pump gas, it just leaks out at least 20% of it. I noticed that the neck is pretty rusted too so I plan on getting that replaced but I have no idea if that could lead to any of these issues, maybe having some rust stuck in some tubs. I have no idea. Also want to mention that there is no engine check light on as of the moment.
the check engine light never comes on.
The car was cutting out itermittently and got progressively worse until it would not accellerate at all. But it still idled fine.what else could it be?
When I stop at a light or stop sign it acts like it wants to stall. Runs fine while I am going and none of my dash lights are on, does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this problem?
When I turn on my car for the first time of the day, I can drive it for about 5 mins, then I start seeing the RPMS slowly start to bounce up. The longer I drive, and more the meter bounces until the RPM meter is going completely crazy. While this is happening, my car is jerking, and struggling to accelerate, idles roughly, and misfires when driving. It can't even go over 40 mph by this time. It even gets so bad that the car starts to stall, and even struggles to start. But when it cools back down, it starts with NO problems. I've gotten check engine codes, and it's telling me that the O2 sensor was bad..changed that. In fact, changed that, spark plugs, wires, coil packs, throttle body sensor, tested the MAF, passed, and changed the cam shaft position sensor. The same exact problem is happening. I'm running out of options. Definitely would appreciate the help!
my lighter plug will not work for a lighter, charger, ect.
ive replaced the fuse with the old and new ports. ive touched the wires together and it wont even power it up for a second. what else could be wrong?
My finger doesn't fit in between the tire and rear knuckle so I'm not sure if there's different knuckles do bigger rims or what. Please help me and Thank You.
It was bogging out if you would step in it real quick. I replaced maf sensor for that and it doesn't bog anymore but I was getting engine light replaced gas cap it went awa y then the light again this time the O2 sensor. What's next fuel pressure regulator? I had the throttle body and injectors cleaned out with the pressurized solvent. New plugs and plug wires. New battery optima. Any ideas seems like hard to diagnose
When using the air cond water soaks the flooring. The firewall does not look like the others shown on youtube. I have removed the items blocking the view of the firewall from engine side and cannot see what may be leaking? Any details from anyone about this?
At first it blew the rear main seal so i replaced it and it did it again, fixed it again, i thought, but now its blowin oil out of the dipstick tube, theres way to much oil pressure so what do i fix now i replaced the rear seal and the pcv valve what do i do next please gelp me
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