1990 Volvo 740 Questions
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Replaced upper radiator coolant hose before I did this. Actual year is 1988. Had been sitting for awhile (1.5 years) before I started working on it. Fuel pumps work fine. Fuel lines look in good condition, no leaking, no rusting. Coolant temp sensor has not been replaced before, as well as fuel pressure regulator. How do I check the fuel line pressure and get my car running again!!!??
needs to cool down to start
I have a 1988 740 turbo. It was about 30 degrees and snowing and a light came on, on what I assume is for the engine temp (left side above gas gauge). it was flashing then just stayed on. Numbers on the gauge varied between 2 and 30. The heater would not work and the engine was beyond sluggish. Im not to familiar with Volvos (and not a fan) ive never seen this on any other car. This is a $500 car with heaps of problems. What causes this problem and will the car just die if ran extensively like this? I have replaced tons of parts on this car including the water pump which seems to be leaking again. The resevour is still full of coolant.
The back lighting for the instrument panel, climate control, cigarette lighter and gear select are out.
Just went out while driving on the freeway, and has never come back on.
Things I checked:
-Fuse #21 =ok.
-sunroof still works (on same fuse)
Could it be a bad ground to the instrument panel?
Haven't yet explored under dash, any suggestions would be much appreciated!
could this be vac leaks or is it map,o2,sensor related? fuel pressure? also will occasionally buck while driving at interstate spd. there is no check engine light on also the speedo has become erratic and the anti lock light is coming on after hitting a bump and now stays on longer/more often
It just hit the 20000 mark could it be something in the drive shift, is it hard to change the bump stop.
I pulled the head and there is a hole burned through the top edge of the piston.
Fuel exits from regulator. Car does not start when regulator disconnected. (Just thought I'd try. Relay ok (replaced). There had been some prior issues, but ignition repairs (cap, rotor, plugs) cleared that up. Just only starts (and runs great) on the residual gas in rail when fuel line disconnected. (Yes, I direct it into a container away from the exhaust, etc.) No codes come up.
Problem started a year or more ago and was fairly intermittent, but is worsening. Lately I notice the heat does not blow out as forcefully when the heater is screaming. Could it be the intake air vent for the heater is clogged and if so, where is this located and how do I clean it out? Or is it the heater blower/fan itself?
Got an '88 Volvo 740 wagon, about 250K miles, oil is blowing out past the oil cap. No pcv valve to replace. How do I fix this?
does the 740 has exhause valve seal like intake seal
car will crank unless gear shifter is moved forward and back in either park or neutral, is there a sensor, and where is it, can't find it
First starting in the morning, the shift indicator light does not come on, but after driving awhile, if I turn off the engine and restart the engine, the light comes on and will not go out and the auto-transmission will not shift past 2nd gear. If the car sits at work, when I leave for home the light stays out unless I have to stop and turn off the engine for something, then the light stays on. I can only drive about 30/35 mls. What can cause this problem?
the car is actually a 1986, i need a diagram of the steering and suspension. The seal or bearing that is on the tie-rod or not sure if ball joint, is loose, wheel wobbles when driving
does not get over drive gear ; will try new relay; but also did replaced trans. bushing & seal because of leak & also rear drive shaft replace. it has 314000 miles