2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI QuestionsRefine by vehicle
never had a problem with the trasmition until after that repair could something been done in the process of replacing the timing belt to cause it?
How to tell and how much should it cost @ dealer?
I get a code P1672 open or short to ground. Replaced the refrigerant control valve and that did not fix it. Took the fans apart and they seemed to be ok.
I had checked the cars booklet,and it states why the ac is not functioning may be the fuse.The other booklet which has the fuse information does not have a space nor a fuse for the AC
.Hence my delema Thank you (no trouble codes)
My car has two climate zones; driver's and passenger's. No matter where the setting is or whether the a/c is on or off, the driver's side is always warm, even when the passenger side is a/c cold. What's the likely problem?
I do notice that the vent to the left of the steering column is usually a bit hotter than the one in the center, but both are considerably warmer than the pass side. In winter it wasn't a big issue, but now I need the a/c!! Thanks
noise from engine after timing belt change
I began doing circle checks of my car before I went inside every night. All lights would be off when I go inside, yet I could come out 5 hours later and the brake lights would be on. Or in the morning my battery would be dead. Tonight I caught the lights on, I sat in the car and fiddled the brake pedal. At full depression the lights were on (good). At 1/4 inch depression the lights were off (okay). When left unpressed, the brake lights were still on (very bad).
1) What could cause this?
2) How can I fix this without spending a bunch of money at a shop?
At 90000 miles an alarm went off to shut engine down; I stopped immediately. Car was towed to dealership. I told them the alarm and stop engine light came on; no radiator fluid. While there I had them do 90000 mile service on my TDI; that included water pump, timing belt, oil change and water separator. Got it back was running rough smell of diesel inside car. Drove it home and the next morning hard to start an alarm went off saying oil stop immediately; towed it back to dealer. Found out on original service call they had ran it 20 minutes when it said stop engine immediately . They were trying to get a water separator light to come on. That was not what was suppose to be done. Did they damage my engine on that original visit? They said on the second repair visit that 2 of the 4 valves were warped and replaced them. So I went back and picked it up and the next day car did not start again. They still have it after six weeks!!! What is going on?
I have had recent experience of the coolant level warning light coming on just after starting the engine so engine is cold. Upon checking the coolant it is between the recommended levels and seems OK. If I stop the engine and restart it generally goes away. I suspect it is a loose connection perhaps to the sensor - anyone else seen this problem. I have had no issues with the cooling system in the past- the car has done about 135K and runs well.
Drivers side door controls suddenly stopped responding for windows, automatic door locks, trunk release, fuel door remote etc. The shop tells me I have several broken wires in the wiring harness which needs to be replaced. The estimate parts, labor, & tax etc. at $625. Is this a reasonable cost for this repair and this area?
how to cahnge glow plugs
the flywheel and clutch pack,now this was changed already now this.
The dealer says it is also recommended to change the water pump while they are at it. But the price quoted is more than $300 over the max price estimated for the timing belt alone and they want to charge me another $269 for the water pump, then the thermostat is another $161. I'm getting ripped off if i schedule this I can see that...besides negotiating with them, what are my choices?
My engine light is on and the code P2112: Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed, is appearing on the code reader. My car will not start. Does anyone know how to fix this?
I just had mine fail. now I am looking at finding a good mechanic or helping my brother who is the one who is mechanically inclined in the family do it. I have none of the specialty tools yet but I could acquire them. How much time/money would I save by doing this myself or having a shop do it.
Also, it's already halfway pulled apart and I am looking at the outside of the crankshaft. And my brother has done nothing on German cars before but he is up for the task. Thanks in advance.