1994 Toyota Camry QuestionsRefine by vehicle
No power to the fuel pump.no noise when you turn the key at the fuel pump.what could be wrong
it died in the street. Took it in they fix something with the computer cost 2000 first day broke down again another 160. More now again when I turn the. Key no noise
Gears shift in the transmission pan. The fluid is good. I disconnected the electric to the transmission and the wheels went forward in drive. The vehicle is giving codes of variable speed sensor and shift solenoid.
The fuse blows and when the gauges rent working the car has a hard time shifting. The rear lights work and the reverse lights work. The wiring harness in the trunk is broken in half. What do I need to do?
It acts like that through all gears, but 1st to 2nd is the worst. Have to get up to over 3,000 rpms and let off gas before it will shift. Also appears to be dropping out at highway speeds (2,300 at 65mph? Is that right?). Just got the car and afraid to put it in for repair. I'm a senior on a small fixed income and a very tight budget.
Is it true that spark plug wires were replaced by rubber boots with ignition coils starting in 1994 - and would that affect all of the 1994 model year Camrys? How do you test these to determine replacement/tune up need?
I was entering a parking lot when the yellow car with lights icon lit up and then the oil and battery lights came on. The car stopped running and lost power to steering/brakes. Headlights/wipers kept running normally. Did not hear it stall. Car restarted fine. Battery 1 month old. Alternator tested good 1 month ago. Is this caused by an overdue tune-up?
When I take my foot off the gas to apply the brake, my car dies. It stays running if I apply brake and gas at the same time though.
While my car is running and in park, the noises it makes are so loud and rattling.
After about 10 mins of driving , my car starts to smoke under the hood and then dies.
I know both are common problems and seems like both show the same signs and symptoms. I wanted to know if there is a way to know which one I need to replace so hopefully I don't have to replace both of them!
Car cranks but won’t start, mainly when it is hot. Crank few times and it starts without any problem or hesitation. This issue does not happen every time and not able to recreate. Took it a local shop and they could not re-create the issue. They changed distributor cap & ignition coil and the issue is still not resolved. So far the issue happens only when the weather is hot and park the car for 10 to 15 min and then when you try to start, it will not start.
and to test it
Problem occurs when A/C is running, and car is stopped at a light, or parked and idling. Sounds as if it may stall yet never has - idle is variable. Headlights dim and brighten in sync with speed of idle. This has been happening for at least a year.
This week, when AC is on and idle slows, 3 dash lights come on: ABS, battery, yellow car with lights. Idles ok if I press accelerator lightly.
Yesterday, it had minimal power in Drive, and made several loud pops under the hood when I pressed the accelerator.
Normal once AC was off. Radiator replaced last summer.
Mechanic 1 said leak and $500. We didn't trust that guy so we took it to Another trusted shop in town. Mechanic 2 said no leak and can't locate the problem. Thinks it could be a sensor or fan isn't blowing enough air. Mexhanic 2 is gonna have friend take a look and possible use computer to help diagnose. Any ideas? We are trying to not spend a bunch on this car if it's not gonna last. But we don't have much options.