32
questions

When Put Into Park OR NUTRAL Car EXCELERATES

my subaru stalls when i start it ,then put it into gear, unless i keep my foot on the gas pedal, my question is how hard is it to fix this problem and is it a sylinoid in the pan of the tranny?

idk what the problem is. ive checked all hoses. everything I can think of that is simple. the AT oil temp light will blink when u start it then if you don't keep the engine at 2k rpms it will die. sometimes it will run on its own for 10 20 even 30 min then it sputters for a few min and poops out. ive heard of a sensor in the tranny that causes this AT temp light but those people had tranny problems too and my tranny works great when the silly thing stays running. any ideas since dealers don't like to give out sensitive info lol

noted when driving a few days ago in drive all seemed well.

shifting to lower gear results in anoisy thump, thump when moving

Just got my used legacy with 139000 miles on it looks and runs good.Catylytic is in the error code,but exhaust not smelling or loss of performance. Timing belt one owner vehicle a fair amount of highway miles on it,chg. at 60000 wondering when or how to get it checked honestly etc.Also abs need to get it checked,if the fuse controls pump and I do get a drained battery can I remove fuse and solve problem till I get money> I do not think it is running all the time but reading reviews need to find out how to check etc..thanks Bruce

Noticed this happening when A/C on and traveling fast enough to be locked up. Tach was fluctuating and could feel it locking and unlocking. Seems to do it right when maintaining speed. Now it does it without A/C on. Noticed that I can get it to lockup by reducing throttle position and load, but as soon as I increase TP, it unlocks. Too much of this gives light and code p0740. Did not notice the lockup problem until started using the A/C this summer.

Tranny also will not shift into 4th gear in Winter until I am 5 miles up the road. Used magnetic heater on pan and decreased to 2-3 miles. I did get a "fluid temp..." something code at one point during the winter.

Tranny also fits one of the brake band adjustment symptoms in the FSM. Shifting from 2-3, it "boggs down" like it's going into 4th, then "lets go" and revs through 3rd and shifts into 4th normally. I can avoid this if I let off the throttle at the right time for the correct duration, but it's tricky. FSM said to back off on brake band adjustment. I have not had any work done to the transmission. Bought used with 77000miles and now has 95000. Trying to figure out if it's feedback from sensors or actual problem with TC, solenoid, fluid pressure, or PCM.

Have had car for about 10 months front driver side tires wears tread on outer edge real bad. But all the sudden out of no where car started to have a wobble and or shaking only when I accelerate. And up hills the more throttle I give it the worse it gets. Same when rpm gets high but will stop instantly if you let off gas and coast or put it in neutral. I have to get up to speed as slow as possible to try and avoid it from shaking/wobbling What will it most likely be?

Cv axle?, wheel bearing?, differential?,

I am filling up my brake fluid every day

It starts up and shuts off it will start right back up and shuts right back off

on wagon back door

It sounds like the front passenger wheel is going to come off, it starts rattling like crazy on uneven roads, it's very metallic sounding like parts are just getting all shook up, it's only on bumps and dirt roads, pavement is fine.

I have had two shops price it two different ways. And there is about $200.00 difference in the two.