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Toyota Highlander Questions

Get answers to questions about your Toyota Highlander at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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504
questions

Toyota service claims that the front brakes are dirty and need to be cleaned and oiled. Is this a legitimate suggestion or just a way of getting more business?

screen says check all wheel drive function What is wrong and is it dangerous to drive

parts stores lists either a 100 amp or a
130 amp. Number of amps not marked on
present alternator.

The water pump was making noise and the mechanics said the timing seal is leaking this just started.

If my car service light is on how many miles I can drive without changing oil ?

I turn the ignition the car wont turn over?

After having timing belt replaced my Highlander started having a cold idle start of 2000 to 2100 rpm, briefly.

remove old headlight lenses .install new ones.

The temp knob just doensnt make go up or down.

it just came on this morning. We had a ton of snow and the wheel wells were caked but we removed that.

when I turn, left or right, I hear a repetitive clicking or knocking sound.

I get a shimy and loud noise coming from front motor area when i first accelerate..worse when i accelerate at 40-65 mph. Can it be the hybrid motor kicking in?

I have Toyota Highlander 2009 , 160000miles tell me witch engine oil is better For it? 5w 30. 10w 30. 10w 40

The indicator light remains on after the ignition is turned on what is the problem and how to repair.

car is in lag mode due to reversing jump
start cables. problem started right after

what is the intuitive parking assist indicator for

i change the shock absorbers and since then tne brake light remain on and the gearbox did not change when driving.. it runs on only one gear since then.. but i guess it's because the brake light is on

tail gate will not stay up

All the light work locks work with cop. When you push star button nothing happens. It lime a fuse is blown .

The noise is more of a "whine" - fairly quiet - and only when the car is actually moving forward while the brake is applied - noise is never heard while backing up with the brake applied. The frequency of the noise varies a bit but centers around 330 Hz. Noise is heard when braking at very low speeds (around 10 mph or less). Brake fluid level is normal. The noise can persist for a few seconds after foot is removed from the brake pedal. Heard the moment foot is applied to the brake pedal at low speed - even when braking is very gentle. Despite the noise, the car appears to brake normally but I am concerned of a potential problem.

Would you buy a 2013 highlander or 2013 MDX. I am getting ready to purchase one of them?
thanks

Engine light is on also vsc light. Wondering if it is inside the transmission or on the outside

they usually go off in a day or two and nothing else seems to be wrong with driving the car. This has been happening over the last year or so. Now the lights have all come on again and with it the car is idling high when you start it and after a few minutes in comes back down (not all of the way though). What is wrong??

Dealership cannot seem to find the issue. Does not misfire until after the vehicle has been driven about 10 to 15 miles

why does the wiper stop - with open window the motor seems to run ok and I have lubricated the heck out of the wiper shaft

Viberation during transmission

Back story: I bought my 08 base model highlander at a reputable lot 7 months ago. I love this vehicle! Only 72,000 miles on it. Three days after I bought it, it wouldnt start one morning after pumping gas. Car lot towed it back and replaced the battery. Everything worked fine and had no notification lights on. I work out of state and left the vehicle in storage (outdoor but securely covered) for about the last three months. I was home every other weekend and would crank it up and circle the block in it.

Current issues: The last week since Ive been back I noticed that the check engine, vsc, and traction lights are on....also....I can crank the vehicle and it will start right up but immediately shuts off. If I try to crank it again right away it starts up and stays on with no problem. This happens EVERY time I go to start the car. There are no odd noises, ticks, or vibrations. The only other symptom is realized when I try to accelerate quickly. The RPMS rev up but its almost like the transmission may be slipping because the car doesnt shift and speed up. I am still able to accelerate and drive safely. If I slowly accelerate, the transmission shifts with no problem. Had the codes checked and out of 8 hits only two were "confirmed". One mention low positive input

Question: What is going on???

Rotors have been changed, not the problem. Brakes are fine, tires are good.
Car stops well, does not pull to the right.
Acts like ABS has a dry cylinder.

They have not been replaced in 2 years.

The noise stops after a few moments