486
questions

All the light work locks work with cop. When you push star button nothing happens. It lime a fuse is blown .

The noise is more of a "whine" - fairly quiet - and only when the car is actually moving forward while the brake is applied - noise is never heard while backing up with the brake applied. The frequency of the noise varies a bit but centers around 330 Hz. Noise is heard when braking at very low speeds (around 10 mph or less). Brake fluid level is normal. The noise can persist for a few seconds after foot is removed from the brake pedal. Heard the moment foot is applied to the brake pedal at low speed - even when braking is very gentle. Despite the noise, the car appears to brake normally but I am concerned of a potential problem.

Would you buy a 2013 highlander or 2013 MDX. I am getting ready to purchase one of them?
thanks

Engine light is on also vsc light. Wondering if it is inside the transmission or on the outside

they usually go off in a day or two and nothing else seems to be wrong with driving the car. This has been happening over the last year or so. Now the lights have all come on again and with it the car is idling high when you start it and after a few minutes in comes back down (not all of the way though). What is wrong??

Dealership cannot seem to find the issue. Does not misfire until after the vehicle has been driven about 10 to 15 miles

why does the wiper stop - with open window the motor seems to run ok and I have lubricated the heck out of the wiper shaft

Viberation during transmission

Back story: I bought my 08 base model highlander at a reputable lot 7 months ago. I love this vehicle! Only 72,000 miles on it. Three days after I bought it, it wouldnt start one morning after pumping gas. Car lot towed it back and replaced the battery. Everything worked fine and had no notification lights on. I work out of state and left the vehicle in storage (outdoor but securely covered) for about the last three months. I was home every other weekend and would crank it up and circle the block in it.

Current issues: The last week since Ive been back I noticed that the check engine, vsc, and traction lights are on....also....I can crank the vehicle and it will start right up but immediately shuts off. If I try to crank it again right away it starts up and stays on with no problem. This happens EVERY time I go to start the car. There are no odd noises, ticks, or vibrations. The only other symptom is realized when I try to accelerate quickly. The RPMS rev up but its almost like the transmission may be slipping because the car doesnt shift and speed up. I am still able to accelerate and drive safely. If I slowly accelerate, the transmission shifts with no problem. Had the codes checked and out of 8 hits only two were "confirmed". One mention low positive input

Question: What is going on???

Rotors have been changed, not the problem. Brakes are fine, tires are good.
Car stops well, does not pull to the right.
Acts like ABS has a dry cylinder.

They have not been replaced in 2 years.

The noise stops after a few moments

I do not park under trees and have never had a sunroof leak before

When I start my car, I hear a really loud ticking sound similar to a belt falling off or slipping. The car performs fine, but I don't know why I'm always hearing this sound.

I can't find the button.

I have 75,000 miles on it now.

Do I have to use premium grade?

In my Highlander, the check engine light stays on 24-7. Why is this? Even when nothing is wrong, it will not turn off. It makes it difficult for me to know if something is actually wrong or not.

Antilock brakes engage on highway if I lift brake Petal up with foot then fine for a while vib very bad when happens

through all the gears. I believe that it is only shifting to 4th gear. The transmission is a 5 speed automatic. The vehicle is all wheel drive.

Thank you!

which is the best used 2010-2013 SUV for me to purchase for comfort and reabililty?

which is more reliable?
How does a 2013 sequoia compare?

Tachometer was working fine until I was about a mile from home, abs and brake warning lights both came on at the same time and fuel gauge needle began fluctuating. This was all simultaneous. Turned the car off and restarted abs and brake lights both turned off but tachometer still not registering. Aliens or?

Making laud mufful noise back sides
A friend think its wheel bearings
How much is cost to fic it?

Which terminal should l disconnect first?

Where can i find lamp failure module in 2002 toyota highlander? My right rear brake light doesn't have power, i tested on the terminals without the bulb and housing. The park light terminal has power, but the other terminal (brake) doesn't have power even when brake pedal is pressed. Do you happen to know where exactly can i find or how to reveal the brake lights junction (presumably somewhere between the fuel filler lid and left brake light housing)?