Mazda Protege5 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
When I come to a halt at a red light my car stutters. If I don't keep the RPM's at 1000 the car will stall. I've replaced spark plugs and wires, but the problem has yet to disappear. Any ideas to what may be causing this problem?
Also would anyone know where I could get cheap parts like bumpers, fenders etc?
With the engine running if I open the oil fill i see positive pressure. Is this normal? Also there is an oil leak at the valve cover gasket (I guess as a consequence )
My car won't shift any higher than second gear
I recently went to get my oil changed and found out there was splitting on the inner side of the two back snow tires. I looked at it and since the tires were about 3 years old, I decided to replace them. The head mechanic told me he was going to order me all weather tires and put them on the next day. He did so and the car drives great. However, I am concerned that once winter hits, the car is going to start spinning out easily since the two back tires aren't snow tires (my dad has had issues with this when he still had this car). The mechanic told me it shouldn't be an issue however I would like a second opinion from anyone who can help! Especially since I could bring the tires back and then upgrade to two more snow tires.
I have a mazda protégé 5 I change all the coil sparkplug and wires fuel pump and filter but the car still misfires when y push the gas start misfire but whe goes to 200 rpm runs good
It used to stick in park and neutral. Now whenever I stop driving it won't engage park or reverse. It doesn't stick anymore and it shifts into gear, just won't engage.
Car runs fine and idles fine but vibrates in park and in drive, like when you stop and vibrates worse in reverse but also not moving.
Retapp & re thread kit available?
broke alternator belt and timing sensor on crank replaced everything found 12 inches of black wire broken free from somewhere . now the car will not start i have have no spark
on the coil wires is there another sensor to tell the engine where the number one cylinder is
The check engine light comes on at the same time. .I had it checked, it was the speed sensor so I changed it. . Nothing else came up. . Then the next day Both the AT light flashed and the check engine. . Then they went off again
The check engine light came in and at the same time the TA light flashed. .I had it check and it said the speed sensor had to be changed, nothing else. . We change the speed sensor.. The light is off and then the next day the check engine light came on and the TA light flashed
Didn't pass a safety due to my brake failure indicators...what are all/any possibilities and what would i need to fix it?
I heard there was a pulley issue for this model year. Not sure which pulley, and what type of alignment problem it is to know if I can make any modifications. It's not a "simple task" to change the belts on this model. let alone when it breaks or comes off, your stranded ( as it also turns the water pump ) unless you get somewhere quick before it oveheats.
my macnice change these parts thats i wrotre on top but problam still in car when stop intersciton no exilator car do vibration and feel like engion going to shut off
when it is blinking car engine does not die but stepping on the gas makes no differance in car speed. once light goes back to solid on or off it runs fine. Toyota dealer did the 90,000 mile service made no differance they could not find the cause of the light coming on.
Auto zone coded read the engine and came up with code P0300 both before the service and after ( Random cylinder misfire detected )
engine sputtered...stopped car then started again, the engine revved and accelerated..was able to get car to slow...drove about 200 yards process repeated...but did not accelerate. I was able to drive home. Mechanic says it has a PO300 code but the car is driving fine. I had driven the car up a steep grade to and from and errand. I had a similar incciden occure several years back when I parked the car on a sleep incline...it misfired but resolved. Any ideas.??
when slowing down and depressing the clutch my car stalls and i have to restart it again. i sometimes will have to do this a few times. sometimes the lights will go dim and the car won't start again until i let it sit for about 10 minutes
Check engine will start blinking every time I go faster pass 60 mph or when trying to accelarate faster; the check engine starts blinking and will lose power, just wouldn't go even if you step on the gas. My mechanic does not have the interpretation for the code, saying need to bring to the dealer,(which will cost me arm and leg).
I need to clean the contacts
Think someone tried to break into car marks on front passenger rubber and torn slim Jim makes weird sound when use key or remote. Today my window was being rolled up and heard a crunch like glass breaking and window will not stay up how much is this going to cost and can I fix?
my check engine light came on and the code was for the coil pack. i replaced them both. before the light came on my car was losing power in first and second gear and hopping a bit. after i changed the packs it got way worse. i have to keep the rpms atleast 2300 just to keep the car from hopping. the check engine light turned off when i changed the packs so i have no way of checking codes. it is my only car and it is driving me insane.
When I start my car after its been sitting for a while (after a few hours have passed) a giant cloud of white smoke comes out of the tailpipe and it doesnt stop until the car warms up. I have to replenish the oil every four to five days. It seems to drive fine for the most part. But sometimes it feels like its pulling a bit. Ive had it checked out several times and no one can find the problem. I was told that they would have to open up the engine to find it... I got a quote of $3000 just to do that. Has anyone had this problem? Or can someone tell me what it could be? Do I need a whole new engine? Thanks for helping.
Can I run over size tires on my 2003 Protege5 195/55/16 or will they rub.
I have a 2003 Protege5 and have owned it for two years now.It was bought used and I have had the wheel bearings go bad on my car a few times. The first time was at 98,744 driver side front bearing,then at 104,587 miles both front wheel bearings went bad.then at 119,482 the front driver side went bad. Now I have 132,015 miles on the car and both wheel bearings went bad again. What is the cause of this. I would like to think that they should not go bad after only a few months each time. There must be something else causing them to go bad. I can not afford to keep taking my car to the shop to get bearings fixed is the Dealer not telling me something.
What is best way to change trans fluid? Bought used 150K miles. Fluid dark.
There is a wire running under the driver's side seat. Mine came disconnected. I am wondering what it is for?
Blue smoke coming out of exhaust, when got emmission test they say converter, don't know if it is frt or back. Blue smoke, valve guides or seals?