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was driving the car it just stopped running tried to restart by after a few time the battery was dead. I tried to jump it. try to start it but it ran ruff and had a engine light on but it stopped running again

I have replaced it 2× thus far and now I need another one
No condensation on the bulb so I'm not understanding

After replacing spark plugs and wires, it Idles great when in park, neutral and reverse, when put into drive, truck idles great for 20-30 seconds, then surges forward hard without putting foot on gas, then shuts down. Check engine light came on after the first time it surged forward. Can not drive to get a diagnostic check done. Just started doing this 2 weeks ago.

Fearful of breaking it if done wrong.

The automatic transmission in the Mazda 626 is basically garbage after 130,000 miles from what I'm finding. Is this the case with the manual transmissions as well?

I have had my 07' MS6 for 9 months and I just noticed that there is a switch inside the center armrest. I can't for the life of me figure out what it does, any ideas?

My main relay isn't getting power to turn my car on. When I bought it they bypassed the relay by winding copper around the terminals. The CE code was saying that the ECU has been staying on and killing my battery. I had it rigged to work but I just want it fixed. I have a bigger blue wire coming from my ignition harness, and I know that's the issue. I've traced it to around the ECU location, but can't get further in without tearing my dash apart. The wire that isn't getting voltage on the relay side is a small hello with 2 silver dashes. If anyone can think of anything PLEASE help me out.

I recently acquired a mazda b2600i and I fixed a leaky valve cover on it. It ran get for about 2 months and then I noticed I needed to do an oil change bad, so the plunger may have been clogged during this period. I put 10w-40 synthetic in it, then about 2 weeks later it starts to tick from the around the valve cover. I got a stethoscope and put it on the fuel injectors and cylinders #1 and #3 injectors sound like they're ticking. But it doesn't run bad so that's why I believe its the lifter/s. It has 208k miles and my friend has the same model that lasted for 325k before it needed any major work.

New alternator and battery.

been sitting 1 yr. added fuel additive, using prem fuel, changed spark plugs, wires, coil packs, HELP

I let it down it went half way and will not go up or down. It is stuck

manual tranny, V6, want to tow it behind a motorhome Thanks for any help

no longer avail. will a ford ranger p/n fit and if so what p/n . taking apart is a big job so need correct info. not interested in whole inst. cluster. Dealers no help. Need Mech. who has dealt with this before and taken apart cluster to change gauge.

I was driving and stop at the store and when I tried to get on the road again it made a pop kinda sound and would not go anywhere?.

This only happens when I slow down,and may speed up. It doesn't happen all the time but occassionally. When I stop, but the car in part and start over I don't have any problems.

odlight flashhedonand offthencarjustslowlydiedthen drove5mtresnext daywhatnext?

It does this every time I ouch in the clutch , I have bad gas mileage I don't know what to do

wont sift out of park,over drive not working, no indicating park,drive frame,wont start

where is fuse for bright lights

Any time, only at start up, and it doesn't show up again until the next start up.

just changed the radiator and thermostat and when flushing I noticed oil in the coolant

I just had all fluids replaced, new serpentine belt and tensioner installed. Engine idles rougher when AC is on or defroster. Now makes a ticking/tapping noise at idle. Does it after car is completely warm. Oil pressure and temp both ok. Could this be lifters needing repair?

if my timing belt just slid over to the side because of power steering fluid leakage, and the battery goes completely dead, can be boosted off and will turn over but not crank. does it sound like my valves are damaged?

Man i bought used car from said i need new lock for wheel to change rear brake pads

mechanic replaced the pcm and "said" it was flashed to vehicle and ready to go.i picked it up and drove it a little while and lights came on on dash. took it to another mechanic, he hooked it up to his diagnostic computer and it kept comming up with mismatched vin #'s the pcm tells the transmission when to shift and it wasnt comunicating with any of the other systems. please help. i NEED answers.

last service i was told it looks 'muddy'. It's 100$ service, trying to understand how necessary it is

Thanks!

model not listed in your list

Where is the valve location to see if it is functioning properly. I have looked for one and can't find anything. I also don't know what it would look like....PLease help

stays running after shut off

it didnt have power going up hill then we took off fuel pump off and we replaced it. i already pushed reset button.